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10 years after Hood by Air's first show, its disruptive spirit lives on in fashion

“Is Hood by Air New York’s Most Exciting Young Brand?” Ten years ago, a few months ago, Hood by Air held its first show at New York Fashion Week. Maya Singer posed the question in her review of the fledgling brand’s spring menswear collection, and finally answered it with her closing words: “The hype is well-deserved.” 2024

Ten years later, Shayne Oliver is designing a new collection under the Anonymous Club label, which is both a design collective and a youth culture incubator. Raul Lopez, who co-founded Hood by Air with Oliver, has revived his label Luar with eye-catching runway glasses and a new It-bag. Hood by Air may no longer exist—not as we knew it then—but its spirit still pervades the runway. Broadening the focus, I argue that the disruption and out-of-the-box thinking that once characterized HBAs is now actually the norm.

In the early days of HBA, putting streetwear on the runway was still disruptive. But Hood by Air doesn’t just refer to them, it makes streetwear stylish by reimagining their proportions and how they’re made. Polo shirts drape into dresses, and puffer jackets are combined with tailoring. Elsewhere that menswear season was all about preppy button-downs and cropped shorts, but at HBA we saw dresses for everyone and mini-skirt collar shirts. At Oliver’s show, menswear’s often reserved, even conservative image at the time began to unravel. This is all reflected in street models of different races and gender expressions – many different from the archetypes of the models of the time – which cannot be ignored.

“We made a very sincere effort not only to be gender-bending through clothing, but to do away with gender categories altogether,” Singer said in her review of the show. said in. Ten years later, as we head into the spring2024 menswear season, HBA’s all-gender skirts and dresses are ubiquitous in the ‘menswear’ collections on its runways. But more than that, it was Hood by Air’s once-unique cast that really made its mark on the fashion world. From newcomers like Chopova Lowena to stalwarts like Miu Miu and Gucci, brands have embraced the idea of ​​”gendered” casting.

Ten years on, Hood by Air’s legacy is the way it persists in providing a platform for underrepresented groups and elevating subcultures into the mainstream. Lesson for tomorrow: Fashion is at its best when it keeps its references and themes authentic, and when it includes the same people it finds inspiration in.

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