For example, copper peptides have actually been shown to improve wound healing, which is part of the reason people started using them in cosmetics. But, as Dr. González explains, these results may not transfer to skin care: “Injured skin and healthy skin have different topologies, so we don’t know if [copper peptides] work the same way on healthy skin, “she says. Several studies have conclusively found that cosmetic products containing copper peptides indeed promote smoother, healthier skin, but it is unclear whether the same wound-healing mechanisms are responsible for these results.
There are some peer-reviewed studies that have tested the efficacy of peptide products on actual human skin, and the results show that the peptides do appear to work. However, these aren’t the large double-blind clinical studies we’d all like to see — they’re often conducted by skincare and pharmaceutical companies. According to Dr. González, that’s not worrisome in itself: “Skincare companies sometimes do good research,” she says, but those studies are usually still insufficient to draw any major conclusions. (The largest study we came across was this 93-person experiment in 2005. Most had 15 to 40 participants.)
Statements about peptide serum do not FDA regulated
From a consumer perspective, the most important thing to understand about peptides is that, like most skin care products, they are “cosmeceuticals”. This is not an FDA-mandated classification; it is a marketing term implying that a cosmetic product has “medicinal or drug-like qualities.” (And those qualities may be used to justify higher prices.) But cosmeceuticals are not drugs—at least, not under FDA regulations.
Peptides are not subject to the same FDA regulations as retinoids, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide, as long as they do not claim to treat disease or alter skin structure. It also means that peptides aren’t as widely studied as drugs, SELF explained before, so we don’t know much about how they work.
Often when people hear “cosmetic regulations,” they immediately picture an eyeshadow palette full of illegal or irritating ingredients. But contamination is usually not a problem with cosmeceuticals. Instead, the problem is how they are marked. When you buy a product that contains the actual drug, the label must list its concentration and the specific form used in the product. No matter how scientific the product or its claims sound, cosmetics – and therefore cosmeceuticals – are not. There is often no way to know the concentration of peptides in a moisturizer, and in some cases, it may not even be clear which peptides are in it.
Still, dermatologists like ’em.
Considering the overwhelming amount of favorable evidence, experts are very It’s no surprise that peptides are supported. “Having reviewed the literature, and in my own practice, I think they do promote thicker skin,” says Dr. Stevenson, who uses a peptide product in her daily routine. But she concedes that peptide products are expensive and may not be as splurge as other absolutely effective options: “Anyone investing a reasonable amount of money in [anti-aging skin care] should prioritize lasers and neurotoxins (aka Botox). ) – and have a good relationship with a dermatologist.”
Peptides vs. Retinol
Good Well, so peptide creams can’t match the wrinkle-removing power of Botox and lasers. But what about retinoids, another gold standard for collagen regeneration?
