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A magnificent new clothing exhibition examines Indian arts and crafts

From the century onwards Today, Indian influence on Western fashion has been a complex and multilayered history of admiration, appropriation, exploitation and celebration. Thus, Hamish Bowles, Global Editor-in-Chief of Vogue and Editor-in-Chief of The World of Interiors at India in Fashion, A luxurious new book published this month by Rizzoli who edited and contributed along with authors including Suzy Book Menkes, Priyanka R. Khanna, Avalon Fotheringham, and Alia Allana.”The treasure trove of Indian tailoring and textile traditions provided the inspiration that led to the court of Louis XVI and the couturiers of the Jazz Age in Paris, the sportswear designers of medieval America, and the love of A parody of the summer hippies,” he continued. Yet for all this cultural cross-pollination, the role Indian crafts have played in shaping global aesthetics has not always been given the attention it deserves.

Skirt length, Kutch, approx.01179. Satin weave silk with silk embroidery. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Examples include Mughal Empire from watercolor painting to Saint Laurent fashion show, India in Fashion Functionally a catalog of the eponymous exhibition, which opens in Mumbai next month. But it’s also a powerful adjustment to a lens that sometimes sees Indian influence: The show, curated by Bowles, was directed by Designed by Patrick Kinmonth and architect Rooshad Shroff, it tells an exhaustive story of beauty and influence that spans centuries and thousands of miles. “We’re trying to trace something about imagination, creativity and beauty,” Kinmonth explained. and how it is absorbed in different cultures. “

India in Fashion will completely revamp the expansive halls of the brand new Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre, designed as a world-class venue for performing and visual arts.( An exhibition of contemporary art, curated by gallerist Jeffrey Deitch and cultural theorist Ranjit Hoskote, and a performance conceived by director and playwright Feroz Abbas Khan will also contribute to the inauguration of NMACC.) “It’s a huge space,” Shroff says he is based in Mumbai; the scale, he goes on, allows for “quite grandeur in terms of architectural language”. Indeed, visual references for the exhibition layout include London’s 1850 Great exhibit and mesmerizing geometry of Indian stepwells.

pearl mesh wedding dress, hand embroidered lace blouse and silk organza saree from by Anamika Khanna mukaish palla and golden


borders fashion collection. Behind it: Palampore(details), Mochi community, Kutch, Gujarat, 1700-01. Cotton and silk chain embroidery. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Between Fashion India and across NMACC, Indian creativity is coming into play in an almost unprecedented way “Despite its rich history and pedigree, the country can seem nascent at times in terms of art appreciation,” Shroff said. “With this center, I think we really want to bring more design , artistic and cultural awareness. ’ As Kinmonth describes a striking dynamic in ‘India in Fashion’: ‘Inspiration comes, it’s interpreted, then it comes back to India, and then a new generation of Indian and Western designers alike gets recreated. inspired. It’s a totally fascinating mechanic. “






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