After the autumn performance in the basement of the Japan National Stadium, Koki Enomoto looked up at the visible curve of the sky on the roof of the stadium and took a photo with his phone To pray for prosperity.
Enomoto is a minimalist designer in Tokyo today, and his photos remind him of one of his favorite artists, the American minimalist artist Els Collage by Ellsworth Kelly. It was a typically clean transition this season, focusing on the edges—the edges of the clothes and the edges of the body, and the relationship between them. “I was really sensitive to the lines and proportions in that photo and wondered what it would look like if I applied it to clothes,” he says.
In the look book that Enomoto used to show in this collection, the models look like cutouts: sometimes far away, sometimes close, with the typical chic yet street-style cuts of Attachment No shadows are cast on the limited background. The lapels of jackets or the waists of (beautifully tailored) trousers were adorned here and there with reflective panels of circular hardware, another nod to the curves of the sky in the photo.
Although Enomoto is a lofty thinker, he is also a very logical person – he makes clothes for clothes, not for art – so he directly pays attention to Focus on the ends of the garment, subtly exaggerate the cuffs of the trousers, or add extra hem at the bottom of the trousers. a pair of shorts. It’s an easy enough twist to bring an extra dimension to the whole thing and keep it from feeling too bland. “If you add a skirt, it creates another edge,” he said.
Like many aspiring Tokyo designers, Enomoto has set his sights firmly on showings in Paris. This season he breaks away from the main fashion week in Tokyo (which will be held from August28) to present his collection more closely to the international menswear calendar; Seasons get a head start. “Overseas things are going well, sales are good and business is growing,” he said. “I wanted to take a way that would bring us, even if only half a step, closer to the rest of the world.” Time will tell how far he can push his future.