It’s been a minute since Alexander Wang’s last run in New York. From the May 2019 show to the present, Wang faces allegations of sexual misconduct that have put his business prospects in doubt. He issued a public apology, his accusers announced they were “moving forward,” and he played a show in LA Chinatown in April2022, but the NYC comeback has varying degrees of import.
There is a promotional ad on his Instagram Reels starring socialite scammer Anna Delvey who is under house arrest in an East Village apartment, which seems to indicate that he is not from a place of training departed. Cheeky is more like it. This fits with the theme of the series. He dubbed it, “Cupid’s Gate,” and dressed the place boudoir-style, with pink velvet drapes and a glamorous zebra-striped rug. The lighting gel casts a red glow all over the place.
Wang, who became famous in New York a few years ago was once known as a model for her off-duty look: baggy blazer, battered vest and T-shirts, and skinny cigarette jeans. He’s no longer the new guy on the block — in fact, he’ll be transforming later this year 40 — but he still has a handle on what kids want. Sexiness is making a comeback in the wake of the pandemic. While the pointy-toed platform shoes looked like relics from another era, the oversized blazer (Julia Fox was studded with crystals); panties.
The performance is divided into three acts. The opening womenswear section also featured a plethora of denim and faux fur in a variety of textures and silhouettes, some of which were on the more formal side, befitting Wang, who has always been known as a downtown designer. Backstage he mentioned Wong Kar Wai’s films like 2046 and In the Mood for Love, which might set off a dressy vibe.
Next up is a boy group, the coolest part of the collection that includes relaxed athleisure pieces like sweatpants and sweatshirts in soft high fleece and cropped tank tops and more animal print pants. On closer inspection, the pieces shone as brightly as women’s clothing. “I also wanted to bring a different kind of sensuality to masculine objects and archetypes,” Wang said.
Closing with a series of silk fringed dresses, suspended from a sheer web base, reveals what they hide. For some reason, they recalled a show far, far away, in the heyday of Alexander Wang 40, whose hero pieces were made of paneled bias-cut silk with fringe around the hips and legs. Regaining the heat won’t be easy, but when he pops out of the backstage and makes his signature running bow, you know he’s going all out.
