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Ami Fall 2023 Menswear

Last season, Ami Paris shut down Sacré-Coeur and coaxed French actress Audrey Tautou to become Montmartre’s unofficial ambassador thanks to her presence in 12 A career-defining role in the film Amélie , who started acting from semi-retirement. After the brand was featured in an episode of season three of Netflix’s wildly popular Emily in Paris, the titular marketing maven orchestrated a campaign featuring Ami’s logo. The event, which featured balloons, showcased what attendees could expect from Paris’s most active U.S. envoy, Emily Cooper (played by Lily Collins), to lead the fall lineup.

Instead, founder Alexander Martius went back to basics. “I’ve done a lot of work on the postcard vibe of Paris,” he said in a preview the day before the show. “After 12 years, this is what we’ve come to know, this Parisian chic, easy-going energy. But I felt this collection had to be different.” Something else turned out to be Bastille Song A theater location (the more modern of Paris’ two opera houses, the other widely derided for its resemblance to a cruise ship) and a stripped-down series focused on conveying a sense of languid ease.

As it turns out, the ugliest opera house in Europe once hosted the young ballerina Mattiussi, “Billy Elliott Village”, when he participated in the famous Garnier Audition age for Opera Dance School 12. He quickly realized that he didn’t like intense competition, so he gave up his dream of dancing. But he still loves the institution very much. “It’s about coming back to a place where I feel comfortable, and that means a lot to me,” he said. “So it’s like my first collection – it’s actually a collection I wish I had started 12 years ago.”

Doesn’t he regret anything he designed. After all, it made Ami a major commercial hotspot. Still, personal struggles, including a period of serious illness with his father over the summer, taught him that success is fragile. “When I came back [to work] in September, I said, guys, let’s start from scratch. Imagine I’m the new creative director, and whatever we’re going to do, I’m going to pretend it’s the first time I see it .Even a bestseller.”

Step 1: Scrub your Instagram feed. Step two: Set aside bright colors and opt for a muted palette of vanilla, butter and gray. Step 3: Shrink the logo. The focus was then on fluid silhouettes—a loose coat cut with a certain looseness, pleated wide-leg trousers, flats with cappuccino socks—and comfortable fabrics. K Pop stars were still in attendance along with TikTokers (Vinnie Hacker) and regular celebrities (Usher, Catherine Deneuve) (Hoshi from boy band 17 caused chaos outside). After all, these clothes need to be sold. But when the show ended, with Charlotte Rampling radiant in navy trousers, a shift in vibe was felt.




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