In the digital world, we have access to almost everything. Casting, mood boards, backstage, beauty; almost every aspect of the show has been revealed. One thing that remains under wraps is the actual design process. There are many ways to make it, for example, someone draws a sketch, someone makes a table. Ashlynn Park did the latter, and at the Cristina Grajales gallery, the patternmaker who studied under Yohji Yamamoto made a scrim of a side saddle biker skirt in her collection, the finished version of which was worn by the model . The designer seemed to get lost during the fixing and cutting process, shaking afterward. It’s not just because Parker isn’t an extrovert, but because she puts so much energy into her work. “Each piece is literally from my two hands,” she said at a preview. “When I look back in history, when I see Madame Grès, Vionnet, Charles James, those designers were always standing next to the clothes and the mannequins, and they would grab the fabric and the scissors. They made their own creations,” Parker said—so did she. This is not as common as you might think. The mother-of-two describes her career as just another child. “It’s a passion that requires stamina and focus,” she said. “It doesn’t mean easy… I know what I’m doing means.”
A visit to the Met’s “Tudors” exhibition this season sparks Intrigued by Park Geun-hye, she chose princes as the fall theme. She checked the century profile, the intricate diamond pattern that appears on a pleated skirt and the pennant flying from a medieval castle Won’t look out of place. The “tail” detail on the hourglass jacket is taken from armor, and the lily pattern looks like something on precious velvet from a museum collection. While there are plenty of historical references, including the detachable neckline, Park’s creations are anything but retro. In fact, she takes the proportional play we’ve seen in general a step further. It might take a minute for the eyes to adjust to the pleated miniskirt (which ties into the tomboy/school uniform reference in the fall2022 collection) peeking out from the arch of the draped skirt, but the combination, skin-baring, is exciting . Park said many of the looks in the collection were “on the borderline of gender.” They are womenswear inspired by menswear and masculine archetypes. “I tried some confusing things, blending pants and skirts, and then we finally found the perfect balance,” said the designer. However, that’s not all. This is the first time Park has used any accessory, and she designed the brooch in the collection.
Clothes are again close to the body, whether hourglass shapes or accentuated breasts are prevalent. The two became a standout piece in this collection, a coat pieced together from a jigsaw puzzle reminiscent of female anatomy. Park focuses not just on the body and clothing, but on the space between the two, known in Japan as ma. There’s another element to that piece, and to this collection: Park’s own hands. These garments are made with skill, love and chivalrous tradition, dedication.
