At FFORME, a new womenswear brand inspired by architectural shapes

“what we are doing is exploring the relationship between quiet volumes, abstract shapes , and where it connects and disconnects from the body,” Helbers explained in a Zoom meeting a few weeks ago. The collection, he says, is “really about the joy and ease of wearing fluid architectural shapes and structures.” For spring, this translates into quiet clothes that speak loudly through the efficiency of fit. Trousers with cutout details revealing the ankles, tunics with perfectly proportioned sleeves and seams add life to an outfit even when hung on a hanger. It can be said that these are works that must be experienced in person. You want to touch them, pick them up to feel their weight, lift your sleeves to see how the underarm folds are, your fingers run through the variegated ribbing on a dense woven dress, light as air. Helbers likes to explore how to make garments with just one stitch—a long black dress, chunky belt, and dart across the back is a great example of this approach. Not surprisingly, he recently helped launch The Row’s menswear line, and before that he worked at Maison Martin Margiela and Marc Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton. He instinctively understands the powerful combination of strong silhouettes and beautiful fabrics. In his hands, a cream sleeveless tank top with slightly exaggerated shoulders was instantly punk; in Lilac, it was futuristic.