Pat McGrath borrowed lines from last season’s hand-painted logo-tattooed faces for Valentino’s 2023 fall runway with a myriad of “dark eyeliner” “Yesterday in Paris.
“The look was inspired by the collection’s exploration of power,” she told Vogue. Against designer Pierpaolo’s neo-gothic black and white collection for Piccioli, the eye statement is made up of “graphic lines and techniques designed to accentuate each model’s unique eye shape,” she explained. The effect complements the dark—even moody—of the new wave of gothic deconstructed makeup emerging this month.
In the spirit of balance, McGrath kept skin clear to showcase bold eye makeup and the collection’s lip and nose accessories. “Pierpaolo and I were drawn to the idea of celebrating individuality,” McGrath said. “We wanted to create a look for each model that was simultaneously distinct yet overall cohesive.” McGrath said that once again they displayed a desirable aesthetic to break with convention, celebrate identity and create “a luxurious immersive experience”.
Plus this season’s eye-catching makeup moments encouraged a DIY attitude, from Victoria Beckham’s flipped pastel cat eye to Gucci’s old red lip, Valentino’s handy experiment with ink eyeliner It’s sure to strike a chord.