If eccentric Milanese-born Marchesa Luisa Casati were alive today, “she would probably be part of The Attico tribe.” Gilda Ambrosio and Georgia Giorgia Tordini dedicated their new collection to the famous aristocratic “living art” of the time. Wrapped in a thin dark veil, parading a few cheetahs on a leash, a snake in place of a Cartier necklace, is certainly an act of artistic bravery. “We love her self-centered mythology,” they explain. “She’s a decadent, a show-off, like The Attico girls.”
Marchesa’s fearless sense of drama and dark aura captivate Gilda and Giorgia, who Go all out – go for the languid, sexy vintage glamour, which is their forte. The collection is filled with party dresses; surefire showstoppers are not for the faint of heart, and they exude an old-world glamour, with a touch of cool and laid-back glitz. Barbiecore is definitely not in the picture.
Daughter of the zeitgeist, Attico’s founders dress like their customers. Half femme fatale, half tomboy, they flaunted bold, almost nude sequined numbers with ease in oversized cargo pants and XXL hoodies and sweatshirts. True to their rule of thumb, here they vary complexity with some crude slack; the lookbook was shot in a dilapidated Brutalist villa, which provides a counterintuitive backdrop for their leprechaun/whore tracks. Model Steinberg was on duty as muse.
Eveningwear is the focus as they temper seductive dresses that pay homage to the vintage glamor of ’40s and ’40s and Modern ease and freedom of movement. Dazzling, body-hugging numbers were accentuated by asymmetrical drama, with boldness enhanced by a plethora of feathers, tassels and slashes. “It’s stylish and comfortable,” they explain. “It’s not sexy to feel constricted or awkward.”
On the other side, oversized tailored trousers, chenille suits paired with wide jumpers and fitted mermaid skirts, and roomy multi-pocket workwear The trousers suggest the careless tomboy hiding inside The Attico sedutress. For the designer, contrast and opposition are the essence of femininity, but also exude a moody nonconformist attitude. “We see Marchesa Casati as a kind of ante litteram punk,” they offer. “We love how unapologetic she was for such an unusual behavior.”