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Berluti Fall 2023 Menswear

Berluti returned to the Paris Fashion Week schedule for the first time since 2021, choosing a different route. Since the departure of Kris Van Assche, the label has been operating without a head designer — and plans to continue doing so. So we instead enjoyed its first showing since June’s 2016 funny and poignant Brexit moment (between Alessandro Sartori and Haider Ackermann). Going back even further, this echoes the footwear label’s fascinating previous seasons of expansion into ready-to-wear from 2012, when Alessandro Sartori ) and Antoine Arnault are still shaping their relationship to

This time it’s Harold Israel, Berluti’s VP of Marketing and Image, who leads the way through the house on Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré showroom. At the heart of Berluti’s customer-friendly repositioning is a shift from ephemeral fashion to long-term style. The result is a non plus ultra normcore: traditionally authentic menswear pieces crafted from the finest materials with an almost unreal craftsmanship. The series shot here spans three editions from July to the onset of winter in the northern hemisphere, and is shot in the same semi-background style as the previous season to create a sense of continuity.

Almost every ready-to-wear garment is a sparkly, gorgeous staple, a must-have piece you want to live with year after year. Look ’s varsity jacket is neat in a rich grape hue, while Look ’s teal overshirt Is my pick: You can see plenty of (highly solvent) educated menswear collectors using their Platinum cards for almost everything. Unpretentious garments, like look 3’s hopelessly soft burnt-orange jersey sweater, featured tiny lifted details—in this case, Venezia leather straps tucked behind the neckline at the back. Interestingly, the brand is once again incorporating its time-honored calligraphic Scritto prints, whether on leather goods or leather-appliquéd jersey pieces—a welcome part of the brand’s code often overlooked by past design headlines. This season, it also developed into a new dense floral monogram based on wood carvings at the Berluti Rue Marbeuf venue; it was patterned on the cotton canvas of attractive day bags and rolling luggage with leather wheels.

Shoes, the basics, include a new, soft-top fleece-lined version of the Ultima boot (now without the useless top strap that was once obnoxious), perfect for incorporating delicately draped cashmere Sweatpants tucked in. There’s a cool new vintage track sneaker, as well as an updated version of the brand’s woven Shadow sneaker. Stripped of the glitz and circumstance of the show, and without following a design narrative other than telling the brand’s own rich story, Berluti’s discreet design team is crafting some compelling menswear.

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