Norbert Stumpfl of Brioni is clearly one happy designer: “I have the best team of artisans behind me and what they are able to achieve is my dream come true,” he said at today’s launch said. He has good reason to be delighted, as Brioni represents an idea of luxury that is both refined and intimate and understated. “As a designer, I don’t need to scream,” he said.
Every season, the incredible quality of production and execution seems to reach new heights, a kind of infinite research whose results are forever surprising. In fall, cashmere varieties are very light, and whispers can be heavier. Llamas and alpacas are more ethereal than passing clouds. Deerskin, suede and nappa feel as soft as a newborn’s skin. Browsing the Brioni collection is an almost supernatural sensory experience.
The same sense of rarity and sophistication is expressed in the most subtle chromatic sensitivities, in tones so soft that they recall Caravaggio chiaroscuro. No wonder Brioni is a Roman home: if there’s one place where the light shines brightly, in every conceivable shade from gold to amber to topaz, it’s Rome. Stumpfl captured this in a sensual fall palette that emphasized the ease and fluidity of the soft tailoring that Brioni has mastered. This season, the play on proportions was as subtle as ever, with longer jackets, fuller trousers, and lighter, more rounded shoulders with more room for comfort.
There are equally soft, luxurious options for women, including wrap wrap coats, elegant elongated skirts, elegant evening smoking dresses in equally exquisite fabrics. Shawls and capes add a glamorous touch and couture spirit. “Brioni’s style is almost invisible rather than overwhelming,” says Stumpfl. “It gives you comfort and confidence at the same time. We absolutely love spoiling our customers.”
