Friday, December 8, 2023
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Brioni Menswear Spring 2024

Norbert Stumpfl presents this Brioni collection in his private apartment on 29 and floors – Construction of the Breda Tower. With a few notable exceptions, Milan is a low-rise city, so the sight of mannequins wearing Brioni’s clothes was a dizzying view of Italy’s fashion capital below. As with visiting the Torre, seeing Stumpfl’s creations evoked a sartorial vertigo: it was a dizzying array of menswear at the highest level that Milan had to offer.

Stumpfl’s Brioni formula has been perfected for all seasons. The flamboyant writing of his earlier chapters has given way to a more assured approach. His clothes were definitely built around tailoring, represented by his silk cashmere peak-collared double-breasted jackets (the skirts were long and completely unlined and unstructured). There are also plenty of semi-casual but deliberately refined pieces, such as a tan nubuck duster with a croc-lined collar, a half-button shirt in a silk-blend and a loose, unadorned Linen trousers.

After discussing Brioni’s womenswear (silk trench coats and sleeveless coats are particularly beautiful) recently appeared in the brand’s recently redesigned store network (named after the London Bruton Street townhouse outpost way), Stumpfl contemplates a mannequin and exclaims: “Clothes look at their worst. Once you put them on, they look a little washed and used, and they acquire your personality stamp, It’s going to look a lot cooler.” He cited the example of his favorite nubuck coat that is now scratched by his poodle, Lulu, who jumps around on him every time he comes home from work. go.

Passing through a fountain adorned with flowing draped garden party custom shapes, and then through a set of more rugged, artisan-like washed cotton suits (my favorite area), we emerge On a lawn: Eveningwear. If something amazing can be found, it’s here, and it is, but in a more restrained form than before. Consider a black silk evening jacket with a grid of 30 tufted squares stripped by hand from the fabric by the brand’s Abruzzo artisans—“two hours per square”—once a It’s a great thing that you know this detail, but if you don’t, it hardly needs attention. The clothes are for the wearer, not to enchant the viewer.



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