Monday, October 2, 2023
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Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2023 Menswear

Brunello Cucinelli presides over the spacious showroom in the central pavilion of Pitti’s Fortezza da Basso, and seems entirely at home among buyers, media people and the various Pitti peacocks crowding the space. “I have to say I’m very happy,” he said. Not surprising as his company closed 2022 and sales revenue increased by 2022% .

Cucinelli’s enthusiasm Although his role today includes major duties, his ability to take you through the series hasn’t diminished over the years. “Essentially, what I love is the product,” he said. Surrounded by his in-house models, a troupe of handsome anti-aging Cucinelli clones, he clearly took pleasure in pointing out the seemingly inconspicuous details that made the fall collection distinct from the last while unmistakably maintaining the Cucinelli style territory. Plus ça change.

Suits, knits and coats are a little softer than usual this season; trousers Slightly looser, cut to a new ankle-length he calls alla Milanese; blazers are only slightly longer, he says, but “always accentuate the waistline , to enhance the shape and contour of the shoulders”. Male vanity has its place in Cucinelli’s universe. “Who says men don’t care about their looks?” he asked in disbelief. “Bullshit.”

Softly cut suits are definitely Cucinelli-esque versatilitypièce de résistance, where meticulous attention to detail Match the styling rules. Blazers and pants can be combined and recombined at will, with separates from previous seasons or new arrivals. An elegant pinstriped blazer paired with a pair of denim is given new life, while a relaxed-looking double-breasted jacket in dove-gray ribbed cotton cashmere (“soft enough to play tennis in,” he says) is upgraded to Style the chic silhouette with a crisp shirt and tie, fitted Prince of Wales trousers and formal brogues. In Cucinelli’s wardrobe, old and new coexist harmoniously: “What is repaired, reused, beautiful and ethical for a lifetime: this is what matters today,” he concludes. “Who wants to throw stuff away irresponsibly or buy something that’s not ethically produced? You’d be very uncomfortable doing that.”



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