“She’s an explorer,” Carolina Cucinelli said, The brand’s co-creative director mentioned in the preview the attitude she and her team wanted to inject into the spring collection. More than a literal translation of the travel theme, it’s about “exploring” the softening of Cucinelli’s code, adding a touch of fluidity, sensuality and a more spontaneous styling mix.
Cucinelli’s ethos is about balance and balance, and this new “exploration” is cleverly played out. The soft, casual masculine suits that underlie the brand’s style are given a more malleable version and finished with lush embroidery, appliqués and rich sequin and sequined surfaces.
On this note, the loose, slouchy pajama set is crafted in a creamy luscious satin and embroidered with abstract crystal flowers , while a cropped cream crop top with a skinny pencil skirt is hand-woven from sequined yarn over a softly tailored linen blazer. “High-end craftsmanship is one of our main focuses, and we do everything we can to support it; we even started a school to keep this craft alive and teach a younger generation of artisans,” Carolina said. She points to a range of tops, jumpers and tunics, intricately crocheted or hand-knitted in various openwork patterns; she calls them “couture-like knitwear because they are a unique piece, like a work of art” Just as collectible.” They carry a hefty price tag, but she insists “we’re not keen on compromising quality.”
Overlooking the showroom scene, Brunello Cuccinelli is clearly proud of his daughter’s involvement in the company (his other daughter, Camilla, works in the womenswear design studio). When asked how and if his role has changed now that the baton is in the hands of young people, he objected: “I’m not from finance, I’m from ‘product’, as they say, I love being involved in creating collectibles and Teamwork,” he said. Everything has to pass his strict standard inspection. “I am the Cucinelli style custodian and now I can really enjoy the role of creative director because the company is built on strong pillars,” he continued. “The brand has to evolve with the times, but it has to be rooted in its principles. We have to be true to ourselves.” Regardless of the teamwork, it sounds like he’s still at the helm.