In spring, Calvin Luo was inspired by Germany – Poland Artist Alicja Kwade is known for his sculptures and installations that deal with the concepts and perceptions of time, space and reality. “Alicja is very good at manipulating common materials and recombining common objects to ‘regenerate’ her structures,” Luo explained via Zoom in Shanghai. “So I spent a lot of time and effort developing the textures of the fabrics and combining different types of materials into the collection.”
Jackets and zip-up tops There are tweeds and houndstooths, panels of knitted or knitted fabrics and accented with mismatched buttons—some vintage, some dead-sells from previous collections—as textural elements. The denim pieces are reversible with a jersey back. “When you look at the piece from a different angle, you get a different vibe. You know, the denim is more casual, the jersey is sporty,” Rowe added.
He also took the sneakers he showed off last season, adding that the chunky rubber outsole “provides more functionality.” “Now it can be used for hiking or outdoor activities,” he said. Metal beads are strung into vests and skirts and used as an accent to dresses and other casual pieces. Thin metal wires—often used in eyeglasses—are made into metal rings that are both decorative and functional. There are exciting details in each garment, but they manage to keep things light on them.