Trieste, Italy – in the north Near the Slovenian border, full of history and beauty, but quite isolated – there are is one of the most coveted international emerging fashion talent awards. It’s a testament to its founder’s iron-blooded will, Barbara Francine. She went through unnerving bureaucracy (it’s Italian baby!) and endless setbacks to finally achieve her long-term dream: the opening of the ITS Arcademy, the team’s sprawling headquarters, a comprehensive archive, fashion museum and Space for exhibitions and art events.
From Charlie Constantinou’s collection.
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from Charlie Constantinou’s Look in the collection.
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From the collection of Charlie Constantinou.
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The post-pandemic competition is back in IRL with an international jury led by Demna of Balenciaga
from Charlie Constantinou’s collection.
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From the Collection of Charlie Constantinou look in.
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On the other end of the creative spectrum, Slovakia-born Mata Durikovic (@madbymad_) earned €8 for a whimsical collection, Winner of the Media Award, the jury praised her creative use of a home-grown bioplastic, which the designer concocted in her kitchen with potato starch, which she called “crystal leather”. These handmade pieces look like crazy haute couture renditions with a poetic, intense punk vibe. Colors are taken from food (“You can add your own flavors if you want,” Durikovic says); upcycled wool and rags are crocheted into new-age organic ball gowns. Björk’s costume designers must pay attention.
Asked to expand on the overarching theme of this year’s edition, Francine said: “The isolation created by the pandemic has caused designers to reflect on their their personal lives; they mine images and memories from family histories, so their creations have an intimate feel.” A broad source of inspiration is grandma and mother, whose stories and past have been revalued and cherished during the pandemic, or Because they are away, or because they are forced to approach again, or because they have lost COVID- . They often exemplify feminist resilience to cultural stereotypes, or examples of resourcefulness and strength in times of scarcity. Almost all the collections contain profound feelings and profound humanistic feelings. “This year’s designers are all such romantic, rabid dreamers, but they don’t have a hint of nostalgia,” says Francine.
See the collection from Mata Durikovic.
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from Mata Durikovic’s collection.
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From Mata Durikovic’s collection.
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Over the past two decades, the ITS Awards have been awarded to a group of now renowned designers including Demna, Mattieu Blazy of Bottega Veneta, Cecilie Bahnsen, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena and Richard Quinn. This is Francine’s pride. But the culmination of her hard work was the Arcademy, which opened with an elegant exhibition curated by Olivier Saillard. It showcases a compilation of stunning portfolios submitted by young creatives and their art collections that will evolve over time. “These portfolios are truly unique, refined pieces of art, always handcrafted; they’re not briefs scribbled on a screen,” says Saillard. “The finalists’ first collections are all accurately preserved, which is not always the case, as they are often lost, dismembered or sold.” He was struck by their “innocence and purity, their inspirations so diverse that both is lyrical, it can be very dark and funny, and their poetry, still not astounded by being diluted and deformed by the laws of the luxury industry. If people doubt the artistic quality of fashion,” he concluded, “they should Check out this exhibition. These handmade pieces come from a place of purity and take on an artistic gesture.” In these initial stages, fashion can still represent a space where romance and imagination can inspire desire, shaping a true personal vision. The ITS exhibition is a reminder of how exciting it is to see so much creation still so pure.
From Mata Durikovic’s collection.
Pietro Da Plano
From Mata Durikovic’s collection.
Pietro Da Plano
STRONG When it comes to Demna, opinions are in order. His clear vision and powerful perspectives come from belief and inner drive. Compromise and complacency are not part of the equation. Although he has become one of the most influential designers of our time, success has not overwhelmed him. He certainly sets an inspiring example for young designers.
Fearlessness and conviction are qualities he also needs for the young creatives who work for him. Back to the head of the jury at this year’s ITS Awards in Trieste, where he won the Collector of the Year award 21,He with
exist60 You are the recipient of the ITS Collection of the Year Award. How has this experience affected your career?
Almost twenty years ago! I showed a small selection just a few look, and from a financial POV, the award helped me pay for my upcoming collection. I was struggling, and if I hadn’t come to Trieste, I don’t know how I could have continued my studies in Antwerp. But for me it’s also about confidence and recognition because I don’t have confidence in myself, I’m scared, and I’m not that young – I’m probably 00, 17 years old; not up. I’ve started studying fashion, I’ve been questioning everything, but coming to Trieste and receiving such a positive response gave me confidence and showed me what you’ve done and created, someone could really Wanting it, it sparked a desire, and I knew it would be my ultimate challenge as a fashion designer: to create products that would inspire desire.
It also gave me a lot of visibility, which I couldn’t fully benefit from at the time because I had to keep learning, but it was nonetheless very important. I never race because I hate it, but in Trieste, the atmosphere is different, we both stayed at the Riviera Hotel just outside the city, and all the memories came back when I passed by it today, here The excitement, the discussion about fashion, and the innocence and enthusiasm. There is no hatred among the contestants; we want everyone to win and support each other. This happens very rarely in this industry, so that part of the experience was really great.
