If there’s one thing to say about Children of the Discordance, it’s that each series is a deeply personal study of the state of mind of its founder and creative director, Hideaki Shikama. Aside from his signature upcycled turbans, graphic pieces and highly tactile fabric explorations, a common thread in Shikama’s work is his unique ability to tell stories by explaining the loose principles behind his seasonal concepts. The idea guiding his fall release, and the name he gave the series, was “Intervention.” , always brings change,” Shikama said through an interpreter at his Paris showroom. The inevitability of change was always on the designer’s mind as he digitally wrapped up his sixth season presented on the Milan calendar. He said his original idea was to debut in Milan as a physical show at 2020, but then the pandemic came and then wa. These two events – or interventions – disrupted Our public environment and his own way of working. In the fall, Shikama reflects on the impact of these interventions and, more importantly, on his vision of a peaceful, post-conflict world.
These ideas meet most authentically in the designer’s novelty textiles. Following the usual Children of the Discorance modus operandi, the collection is built on eclecticism, albeit carefully curated, but this time based on military surplus fabrics , a mix of upcycled and new textiles. In Shikama’s ideal world, he says, there would be no need for military uniforms, so excess uniforms and fabrics would be upcycled into ready-to-wear. The standout pieces in the group are the military-lined jacket, Parachute pants and jumpsuits, all of which have been graffitied in collaboration with a Japanese artist, and each piece is hand-painted. Also worth mentioning are the jackets and pants, which Shikama and his team made from military textiles Old treated and cut into geometric shapes to reveal a second layer of shell fabric or an upcycled memorial hood.To emphasize this reimagining of military uniforms in a peaceful world, Shikama’s team created them with photographs of trees and other natural elements taken in Japanese parks
Elsewhere, hooded paisleys were printed on wool, deliberately revealing the white fabric underneath (“like a layer of dust after a war,” says Shikama ).There are also items made from a selection of vintage t-shirts (including a Pink Floyd band shirt and a Thrasher magazine t-shirt), and a trench coat made from remnants of a vintage coat and lined with more memorabilia bandanas The standout was a double-breasted kimono jacket and trousers with an embroidered graphic. Shikama often adds tailored looks to his more workwear-inspired styles—these are often among his best looks .
The beauty of Shikama’s Children of the Discordance is that he refines his style, often incorporating nostalgic and emotional concepts into tactile and accessible clothes. Stories about street culture in the large Japanese city of Yokohama, and this season, he imagines a post-conflict world. What story will he tell next?