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Courrèges Early Fall 2023

Nicolas di Felice found pre-fall inspiration in an obscure 1970 film. According to its IMDB description, A Swedish Love Story tells the story of two teenagers who fall in love despite the disapproval of the cynical adults around them. With young starlet Ann-Sofie Kylin so glamorous in a leather biker jacket, white shift dress and tutu, it’s no wonder the Swedish film isn’t being referenced more often by the designer.

The connection between movies and collections is both obvious and subtle. There were miniskirts and biker jackets in the image of the Kylin character, but di Felice handled them in a way that stripped away any vintage connotations. He is one of the main creators of current fashion microtrends, and his associates include the young stars of our time: Dua Lipa, Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber.

Among the many things that have changed since the heyday of André Courrèges 1970 is our understanding of erogenous zones. The midriff is now the sweet spot, hence the sports bra tops and T-shirt dresses with cutouts across the torso. Di Felice said his label’s spring collection will have more dimension, and that he wanted a “more organic” feel. As for the aforementioned biker jacket, it’s actually pulled from a dive jacket in the brand’s founder’s archives, with the addition of internal straps that can be easily slung over the shoulder like a bag.

Slingback kitten pumps subvert beach biker, but only up to a point. After opening a Courrèges store in New York’s SoHo district in September, Di Felice hinted that he is now looking at a location in Los Angeles.

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