Tuesday, February 27, 2024
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Courrèges Fall 2023 Menswear

One aspect of Nicholas Di Felice’s brilliance is how he deftly uses social observation to optimize the function of clothing – and then make it both cool and sexy. This season, his thought process was triggered by observing the common phenomenon of people bending over their phones. “I’m really working on a new silhouette that’s really like a curve,” he said at the Courrèges showroom. “It really doesn’t look like much, but it’s actually something, this reflection of us on our phones.”

A rig suggesting a cell phone mast is mounted in the middle of the space. Technically, Felice was inspired by the effect gazing at a screen has on human posture, causing the shoulder line to lean slightly forward—and the clever idea of ​​inserting hidden zippers on the inside of the cut sleeves that extend to the elbow, “so you don’t have to ruin your Clothes!”

Courrèges’ lines were sharp, mostly dark, and subtly cut by Di Felice to fit the founder’s original space-age minimalism. new generation. Here’s another of his talents: Witness what he calls “mini culottes.” It looked like a plain black long-sleeved tunic, but with a narrow slit at thigh-high; a smear of flesh where the hem met the trousers. He recommends a provocative piece for all genders.

Meanwhile, Di Felice has rigorously but approachably established Courrèges signatures and basics over seasons: slightly flared trousers, horizontal slash pocket suits, stretch-knit ribs that are astonishingly high Sweaters and vinyl jackets. A very desirable addition are pointy kitten heel sock boots. They bear the increasingly clocked Courrèges logo, but are never ostentatious.

This pre-season collection was just a taste of what Di Felice planned to show at the Paris fashion show in March. The idea of ​​a phone screen would take another angle on his observations, from those opposed to surveillance. “Some people thought about it, maybe wanted to resist it,” DiFelice said. “It’s more of a subculture punk vibe.” A white mini dress with a big black eye printed on it somehow hinted at what might be coming. Whatever he means, one thing is for sure: As far as the fashion world is concerned, there are a lot of eyes on him right now, watching him watch us.



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