The idea of the suit as the foundation of a modular wardrobe was a recurring one this early fall, but it’s always been part of Deveaux’s remit. Co-founder Andrea Tsao says the American sportswear philosophy is “something we really want to do, [like] a bunch of young independent New York labels.”
Deveaux in a streamlined style The way into the new year, which is the result of a rebranding that started last year, Tsao said, “is not chasing that youth factor that seems to work very well for other brands, but not necessarily for us. . . Wanting to make sure we double down on some of the core principles of the brand ultimately means it’s very product-based.”
Less is more at Deveaux, a brand that has always focused on workwear, minimalist tailoring and minimalist tones. Workwear, camping and button-down shirts are the core pieces of the current collection. They may be wardrobe classics, but Deveaux gives them their proverbial ‘twist’. Men’s camp shirts have slits; Oxford-style top hats have wrist straps. Pre-Fall 2023 focuses on materiality. Design director Awnny LaPlume explained that the team used natural fibers as well as recycled fibers from factories that limit water and carbon emissions. What looks like denim is actually an indigo-dyed twill weave; elsewhere, leather-look designs are made from water-resistant coated fabric.
The trousers that are ubiquitous this season appeared at Deveaux, along with ruffles and skirt-pants layering. One of the standout elements in the womenswear collections was the longer proportions, another was the drape of many of the fabrics, which added a sense of ease to the smart-casual collections. Deveaux also entered the handbag market this season with two Italian-made styles, both with structured designs. One is inspired by a cylindrical back pillow; the other is in the shape of a tulip with a side zipper that changes its profile.
Some pieces are shared between the womenswear and menswear collections, but the latter pushes the boundaries. Semi-sheer shirts and curved seam pants are anything but traditional, even if they don’t scream. As Tsao puts it, “I don’t think men and women wearing Deveaux are always the loudest people in the room.” However, that doesn’t mean they fade into the background.
saying, ‘Hey, there’s a lot of clothes here that probably look like a lot of clothes that already exist. ’ But it’s important for us to say, ‘Hey, this is where we stand, if these are the types of clothes we’re looking for, then there are people looking for them too. ‘
