Glenn Martens describes the Diesel range as “something for everyone” as he savors a Caesar salad. He continued, “Because Diesel is not a luxury brand, it’s important to remember that. This means that our pre-collection — unlike Louis Vuitton or Balanciaga, which speaks to the same customers in the main line in the ‘pre-show” — Our shows are aimed at a different audience than ours, although there is some overlap.Our shows are geared more toward people in fashion, while our pre-season collections try to speak to everyone; my brother, my mother, high school students …everyone. So it’s a very different exercise for me.”
Assembling such a broad yet aesthetically distinct offer certainly required Martens to work out with the in Diesel mainline or /project. To evoke this more commercial proposition, he considered a group of personalities with the same traits: “It’s this boundary-pushing, no-nonsense attitude. Sexy and fun.”
Denim, whether it’s a permanent selection from the library or a seasonal fit, remains the physical embodiment of Diesel’s core irreverence. Here, it’s been manipulated and replicated in multiple ways to make shoes and underwear (obviously very popular), woven into sweatshirts—a Diesel French terry—for milk tubes and tracksuit separates. There are denim dresses with zippers, leg-length denim skirts, and of course, plenty of jeans and jackets. These sometimes feature the Diesel D logo (embroidered on the back), which Martens likes to be as ubiquitous as possible; other looks include his belted dress hybrid clasp, the hardware of a Charm handbag whose chain doubles as a necklace, and metallic wire space The chest of the girl vest.
) Other stages include a black-centric group whose aesthetic ranges from utilitarian grunge to oversized to post-street tailoring. There were clever double-layered shirting, with a worn look that exposed inner layers (a descendant of the previous mainline collection). A world map has been enlarged and distorted into an abstract camouflage, emphasizing the company’s global ambitions. Accessories are key to meeting these requirements, and within this collection Martens presents a new collection of sunglasses by Luxottica, as well as a new version of the Prototype sneaker with an accentuated sole. The acid-hued floral pieces at the end of the ongoing house brief are as sexy as they are playful, as their designers intended.