Wednesday, October 4, 2023
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Ernest W. Baker Spring 2024 Menswear

Reid Baker and Ines Amorim are rearranging their coat racks after a visit from a major online stockist. The Porto duo behind Ernest W. Baker drew a steady stream of visitors to their pop-up Marais showroom, unwilling to hold a show until they met their exacting standards. Here, wide-ranging but not redundant, they speak honestly and engagingly about how their brand has received steady attention from one season to the next — and not just because of Pharrell, Justin Bieber, G-Dragon and Harry Styles is all in it.

“We are low key people. We care about creating cool graphics, beautiful clothing, and something unique and authentic. When you create something like that, people will come, ‘ said Baker. “It takes time because you’re not in front of them.”

While they’ve been a brand long enough (2017), it’s okay to start with their own brand Drawing inspiration from its repertoire—see double-breasted lapel jackets paired with stitched, pleated flares; well-dressed tracksuits; variations on roses and playful interpretations of gift bows—the collection works through film noir would-be characters. Offers a variety of freshness. They brought up another narrative layer—the family vacation—to explain their spin on poolside slides (adorned with chains) and a suit reminiscent of a summer starry sky (thanks to the little gold sequins). They experimented with saturated hues (all-over rose and violet suiting and velvet knitwear) and reimagined rich leisure icons (golden terry terry, velvet tracksuits).

Baker and Amorim established their headquarters in Portugal and worked closely with factories to develop bespoke materials – multicolored pinstripes, beautiful crocodile embossed leather, snakeskin bouclé – for the brand’s allure contribute. Their quest for a sofa to appear in this season’s lookbook turned out to be a collection of clear vinyl slipcovers assembled into military-inspired vests and trench coats, overly stiff but inviting (limited production, TBD) .

Unsurprisingly, they’ve reissued the studded leather suit Pharrell and Helen Lasichanh wore to last year’s Grammys, pointing to the latest version’s theme (think holiday fireworks ). The turquoise twin also has an immediately eye-catching XL spider web graphic embroidered with gold thread on the turquoise twin, further enhancing their spider fascination. Sleeveless cuts are a testament to their sartorial expertise, while ensembles consisting of jackets, shorts, shirts and ties will prove a winning combination for celebrity stylists looking for a slightly ironic way to dress. Stylists should also consider womenswear, including power skirt suits and “granny chic” outfits (a pencil skirt with leggings and a quilted fanny pack). In fact, the Ernest W. Baker Orchestra is the label’s star. “People are buying the overall look, and we push that; but of course, they’re free to break it up,” Baker said. All the personal memories are tucked away in the collection, and the brand is currently thriving.

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