Seville-born designer Ernesto Naranjo often pays tribute to the 20 century female artist with his collections. For his spring 2023 proposal, Lynda Benglis and Judy Chicago inspired the carefully developed ideas and colors that shaped his designs. “They are artists overshadowed by their male peers, so I wanted to celebrate them. I draw inspiration from their artwork and their personalities,” said the designer.
Naranjo studied at Central Saint Martins and started his own label with John Galliano of Maison Margiela and Olivier Rousteing of Balmain. His Andalusian ancestry is often at the heart of his creations, and if there’s one hallmark of Naranjo’s fashion, it’s the constant inspiration he finds in his family. In fact, to highlight local traditions and craftsmanship, the designer produces his collections in southern Spain, where he collaborates with professional artisans.
Shapes, textures and colors that signify the brand’s identity are based on the reuse of fabrics and garments from previous seasons, and always strive to create fashion that will endure, avoiding ephemeral trends.
This season, Naranjo brings a sensual touch to his designs. “I wanted to explore the sensuality of women as in Japanese tradition. It was a more sensual vision, showing the skin in an elegant way, as well as evoking the paradox of nudity by showing parts of the female body that might not have been considered at first is sexy,” he said. Thus, the V-neck and see-through elements are mixed with Naranjo’s famous volumes, this time in a more fluid way. “My books are still there, but now I want to try them out and turn them into something more fluid,” he explained.
