is swayed by the promise of tons of boutique hotels, high-end restaurants , celebrity sightings, and trendy crowds visiting the Aeolian Islands tend to congregate in the east – more specifically on the islands of Lipari, Salina and Panaria – while Phili in the west Cudi and Alicudi are wild. Locals, well-known Italians, and a handful of creatives who have fallen for the indelible authenticity that quietly exists here make the most of this remote and unspoiled natural resource.
In Filicudi, the villages are connected by ancient mule tracks, just a few minutes walk from each other. Watching the sunrise and sunset from your patio is usually the main activity, as you spend most of your afternoon jumping into the sea from the rocks and bays of the island, or with a granita in a picturesque fishing village Cool down. Eating out means rubbing shoulders with local fishermen at one of the island’s few mom-and-pop shops. Alicudi is as rustic as its big sister, but a little wilder. With no cars, donkeys transport goods on the island, and to get anywhere requires hiking up the island’s volcanic cones. You won’t find any ATMs or street lights, and the lack of restaurants means the best dinner seats in town are at the homes of the island’s most popular fishermen – you’re lucky to get an invite. Twin Islands may not be for fashion creatives, but their raw quality is what makes them so amazing.
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Below is a guide to Filicudi and Alicudi.
Where to stay
Don’t expect to find a bunch of modern hotels on either island, but Filicudi does have some small boutique hotels or guesthouses that still exist completely with the spirit of the island. The most fascinating was created by Italian gallerist Sergio Casoli from 092 and features a restaurant and five eclectic rooms with views of Sicily and Etre Panorama of the volcano. The most common form of accommodation is a private villa, available for rent on various rental sites including Airbnb.
Casa G by Filicudi .
by Casa G
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While the Twin Islands aren’t known for their culinary prowess – one of the many reasons why they manage to keep quiet – you’ll be spoilt for choice with the abundance of island’s homegrown ingredients, Such as almonds and cacti, as well as daily imports from Sicily. To be sure, all the pub restaurants are rustic and understated – you quickly realize this when you regularly eat with the local fishermen who live on the island all year round, many of whom are chefs themselves , and will invite you to their house for a seafood dinner.
Da Nino sul by Filicudi Mare’s Orange Granite.
Photo: Elena Bragiri
As for eating out, the most popular restaurants for locals and travelers alike are small hotel restaurants such as Da Nino Sur Mer in Filicudi and La Sirena (order the almond pasta, which is a specialty of the island) dishes), and Ristorante Ericusa of Alicudi. For an aperitif, head to the Filicudi Saloon or Bar L’Airone in Alicudi (your only option, really). Another restaurant worth a visit is Filicudi’s La Scogliera, in a hidden alley on the edge of a cliff overlooking the sea. There is no menu; fresh and available food is served that day, giving home cooking a deep meaning. For pizza, head to Ristorante Il Boschetto, where pizza is prepared in a typical rural setting using fresh local ingredients. During the day, head to Lido La Sirena for a beach lunch at Filicrudi, a sushi restaurant whose wordplay is right
Crudy
, the original word in Italian.
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L’Airone by Alicudi. Photo: Elena Bragiri
In Alicudi, since there are no official restaurants on the island, it all depends on who you know. Many well-known locals prepare home-cooked meals in their own homes for €/person, Solavito explained. “Some of my favorite restaurants are the legendary Silvio’s, the talented young fisherman Marco’s and Lea’s, where you can dine with lovely people on the lovely patio.” Find them? Ask around.
How to do
Filicudi and Alicudi are beloved for their idyllic escapism and dreamy vistas for simple pleasures like swimming and hiking. For Milanese photographer Elena Braghieri, who has been visiting the island for years, she recommends hiking along the ancient walkways from Filicudi port to Pecorini a Mare, or
Mix
. “The view between the olive trees and the prickly pears is breathtaking,” she said.
Views of Alicudi.
Photo: Lucy Lauchter
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There you can explore the fishing village (and beach) of Pecorini a Mare, one of the most beautiful views on the island. For the best swimming experience, head to Le Punte, a volcanic pebble beach at the southernmost tip of the island, only accessible by foot from the trail that starts at Filicudi porto. “Don’t miss the cruise around the island to [the rocks] La Canna and the rocks near Pecorini a Mare, such as the Grotta del Blue Marino,” Elena added fill.
swimming in Filicudi at Pecorini a Mare.
Photo: Elena Bragiri
For culture seekers, marking the island’s creative awakening, Sergio Casoli reopened his gallery Studio Casoli, formerly based in Milan and Rome’ 15s. After 20 years of closure, the gallerist has decided to reopen on his favorite island, where he lives during the summer. This summer, he has exhibitions of Giovanni Gastel and Peter Doig, and plans to close the gallery during the off-season for artist-in-residence events, before reopening next summer with two new exhibitions.
Peter Doig exhibition at Studio Casoli in Filicudi. by Studio Casoli
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in Alicudi when you are not While enjoying the tranquility on the villa’s private terrace, head to Spiaggia Bazzina or Scoglio Galera for a swim or around the port ask Silvio, the island’s legendary fisherman, who will take you on boat tours during the day and entertain you at his home on request at night Enjoy a seafood dinner. For adventurers, trek to Filo dell ; Arpa, a steep two hour hike from the port to the central peak of the island. Along your path, you’ll come across scenic stops such as Chiesa del Carmine and Chiesa San Bartolo, as well as a series of caves called Timpone delle Femmine. Chiesa del Carmine marks the halfway mark and is a reasonable place to stop if you get tired. Since there are no cars on the island, getting anywhere is a bit of a climb, although you get spectacular views that don’t just make up for it.
author
Elise Taylor 
