London Fashion Week officially started on Friday, suspended on Monday— – with the whole country – for the funeral of the late queen. After several days of intense negotiation, the designer community decided to pull together and continue to showcase — some for the first time. There will be no external frivolity and internal celebrations, but still: the surprises this emerging group plans to land will be of a very different nature. This is a new generation of spiritually motivated makers and inventors who have emerged from the last two years of pandemic isolation with a new mindset and a desire to make fashion better.
Photo: Courtesy of Paolo Carzana
Photo: Courtesy of Paolo Carzana


Photo: Courtesy of Paolo Carzana
Photo: Courtesy of Paolo Carzana
“Imagine we could change all this. The resounding title of Paolo Carzana’s debut show was reminiscent of the collective intentions of London’s latest generation. The Welsh-Italian designer produced and filmed on his own during the lockdown in his Cardiff studio last year for the Another World series Already impressive. “This show is about going from darkness to light,” he said. “My last series was about imagining angels surrounding and protecting me during traumatic times. The song goes through mourning to symbolize our freedom and love over everything we’ve been through. Now working at Sarabande Studio, founded by Alexander McQueen, Carzana makes what he describes as “feminine cuts with strength and fragility”—the invention of a beautiful technique he developed by manipulating slow-moving and naturally dyed materials. “Don’t take it too seriously.” ,” said Cazana, “I feel like I want the fashion industry to change. This demo shows my vision of where we need to go – and everyone I know, my friends – is changing it too.”

Photo: Courtesy of Leo Carlton
Photo: Courte sy of Leo Carlton

Leo Carlton
almost Sacred Ritual will be expected to be an unprecedented fusion of metaphysics and metaphysics in Leo Carlton’s lecture. The young designer roams the field connecting VR sculpting, mental thinking and physical biomaterials. “The speech was like a circle of witches because of my very spiritual background, in a very pagan way.” They built a laboratory in the shed on their father’s farm in Oxfordshire during the lockdown to get close to nature, Carlton – a Stephen Jones alumni – first designed in their “virtual studio”, wearing a VR headset, to generate organically flowing forms of their headwear, facewear and bags. “I used the animation character software Z-brush to clean up the form and then printed it out with materials such as fermented cornstarch, crushed oyster shells and coffee grounds.” The result – “similar to prehistoric bones” is “technical and natural plant-based materials produced The process of wearing and eco-friendly results. The process includes all bodies.” This amazing leap from the designer born in the world of gaming, technology and sustainability consciousness introduces a fully circular approach to accessory creation, which means Author of Leo Carlton’s Works Can Be Customized, “allowing customers to customize pre-printed head accessories and body parts.”
Image: Courtesy of Sinead O’Dwyer


Picture: Co urtesy of Sinead O’Dwyer

Irish designer Sinead O’s showcase debut ‘Dwyer added her sculptural styling dynamics to the body-positive design movement. Like the burgeoning group of young designers, O’Dwyer’s motivation was to create an antidote to the painful experience of being a front-line intern in the fashion industry. “I saw a very scary side of the industry in the dressing room before the show, seeing the models that came in were actually suffering from anorexia — and how they turned into this tall, glamorous fashion model. It blew me away. .” She quit her studies at the Royal College of Art in London “to figure out what I was struggling with” and began experimenting with “life casting” of her female friend, sculpting molds out of alginate. “I’m inspired by my fit models. I’m interested in mental health and how the fashion industry has a huge impact on young people’s bodies, how they grow up, and the bodies of older people.” O’Dwyer invents a cut from UK size Begin the pattern craft and include sizes from 8 to to reduce the stereotypical restrictions in the plus-size market that “only offers tents or hourglass dresses”. I’m obsessed with creating form-fitting patterns for clothing, like tailoring; it’s a big focus. ”

Photo: Courtesy of Michael Stewart Dunne
Photo: Courtesy of Michael Stewart Dunn
Michael Stewart · Dunn
Michael Stewart Dunne’s long haute couture pieces will continue to gather under Lulu Kennedy’s stylish oriental umbrella New surprises for the audience of the changing roster of individualistic talent. Dunn is Irish, and his sensibilities are deeply rooted in the mystical influence of his country’s rolling landscapes and ancient stone tablets. “When people think of the ‘Irish’, all kinds of ideas about Celtic mythology and folklore come up,” he reflects. “I want to get out of this situation. If you really look closely, archaeologists have shown that before the Celts, Ireland was inhabited by people from Europe and beyond.” Dunne’s Styling – Elaborately Decorated in 3D And Fill – representing a revival of single-person concept design that London hasn’t seen in years. Like his compatriot Richard Malone, he advocated slow, skilled production for women who were inspired by the power of subtle, subtle silhouettes.
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Photo by Johanna Parv

Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Parv
genre crossing with Johanna Parv and her dynamic chic tackling the sheer fashion of urban cyclists’ neglected women in yet another innovative turn. A cyclist herself, the Estonian designer settled in London while studying for a master’s degree at Central Saint Martins, where she took to the streets to photograph women’s struggles with bags and tricky clothing compromises during their commutes, And go anywhere. The lockdown era and the growing societal push for sustainable, fuel-efficient travel gave Parv the impetus she needed to launch a collection that would combine chic, sexy, contemporary clothing with the demand for luxurious bag designs Blended with the dynamic, functional qualities of sportswear. Her proposal amounts to a feminist intervention in a circular garment that has so far been dominated by men in Lycra. Her whole point, of course, is that her collections are built—without any changes—to get women off their bikes and into offices, restaurants and clubs.
