Tuesday, May 30, 2023
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Fumito Ganryu Fall 2023 Menswear

Many designers listen to music in the studio. Fumito Ganryu prefers to pull in videos about social issues around the world. That said, he’s not the type to have his beliefs printed on the back of his jacket or T-shirt. Instead, it permeates his buildings, sometimes even the material itself. That said: For the T-shirts, he borrowed a material called Spaore from the medical world for its health benefits, from improving blood tests to posture (which, he adds, Ganryu and his team swear by).

“One thing that motivates me is the people around me, no matter where they are,” he said through a translator during a Zoom call from Tokyo. “In order to understand what consumers want, you have to understand social issues, and that ultimately reflects on consumers.”

This season, he draws on his conviction that we live in a A world where “fashion design is less concerned with consumers than with marketing”. So he put himself in the consumer’s shoes, focusing on tailoring, removing excess detail and keeping colors to earthy, earthy tones. Drop-crotch pants are a Ganryu signature, designed to combine comfort and style.

For fall, he revisited the style in a variety of materials, from soft pastel pink sweatpants with hidden zip plackets, to denim and blazers. He also gave himself extra leeway by starting a new route. Redlines are impulsive, “rebellious”—often asymmetrical, always inclusive—attached to the mainline’s “logic” pattern-making approach. Finding a space to play was a huge part of the decision, the designer said, adding that as he got older, he noticed that he tended not to wear as much “outside” clothing as he used to. Now, his bases — no matter their age — have options.

While the mainline cropped jackets and coats are still traditional styles, they have been stripped of traditional masculine elements; while these are not unisex, they are in the process of Ganryu . His accessories are also very cross-border charm. With lifejacket-style harness fasteners and two concealed zippered compartments, the quilted down boa doubles as a pocket for warmth and as a place to store your keys, phone, and wallet (it can also be quartered and carried). Created in collaboration with Japanese bag brand Ramidus, the nylon bag cleverly folds and expands to the size of an artist’s portfolio by changing the strap fasteners. The first collaboration with Japanese footwear brand OAO brings water-resistant black leather sneakers, complete with a locking buckle to tighten the laces when needed. These, like the T-shirts, tell the story of his process.

“I didn’t want to focus solely on designing for the joy of the consumer,” said the designer. “I want to add another layer.”

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