“It continues the dialogue between the brand’s Parisian style and my American style, which is heavily influenced by California and New York.” Matthew M. Williams (middle name Michael) said of Givenchy This pre-fall collection for womenswear and menswear spans continents and cultures. They’ve been largely ignored since 2005 or so, when one of Williams’ predecessors first began his tenure. So last season was focused on considering the apt, ultra-definitive and ultra-feminine of its aristocratic founder, the full name Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy Modernized tailoring – it feels surprisingly new and looks refreshing.
Williams, until now a faithful prophet of that era, has since continued the conversation with the previous one. He said: “I stayed with his family for a while and they showed me some of his old sketches, actually sketches from when he was at Schiaparelli before he started his own label. He was so creative. Seeing the shape It’s so interesting how early on a lot of the design codes of his design language were created. It’s pretty cool.”
Of course, the founder’s DNA is defined primarily through womenswear: via Ao Dai With muses such as Lee Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Givenchy shaped the medieval definition of soigné. Here, feathers, crystals and sequins added texture to a carefully tailored evening gown with ruffles and bow garlands. More broadly, the interplay between Givenchy’s couture codes and Williams’ more democratic sensibilities manifests itself in contrasts of materials and forms—trucker jackets and wool/silk MA1—as well as major The contrasting abutment depicted by the dichotomy between tailored “formal” and more casual pieces. The epitome of this Rive Droite v West Coast approach is to pair a tuxedo jacket with denim shorts.
While there was a lot of oversized tailoring, the Vendome v Venice Beach conversation had little influence on menswear, contrasted with high-tech sneakers and more modern examples of men’s uniforms. Especially impressive were the richly colored garment-dyed nylons in military blazers and cargo pants. The new hardware comes in the form of fasteners, named “G-clamps,” a nod to Williams’ own early-formed design codes. By talking to the origins of his now steward’s house, Williams enriched both his interpretation of it and his own design vocabulary.