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Victor and Julius by Heriot Emile Juul didn’t just build on the momentum they were nominated as a finalist for the ANDAM Awards this year, they went all out. “Compared to our size, I think what we have to do is pretty ambitious,” Julius said by phone, “but for us, it’s kind of like working hard or going home.” Fourth floor has been selected,4, sqm’s warehouse in Paris as their headquarters, they began to prepare a multi-sensory experience in several performances: show, dinner (a vegetarian feast of black food, with reference to the brand’s iconic Hue, is 38 people, served by a Michelin star chef), after the party. The stage for the performance is equally exquisite. The soundtrack features AI-generated music by Lorem (aka Francesco D’Abbraccio) and is accompanied by the robe-clad choir of the French Conservatory. Julius, creative director of Victor’s business director, also collaborated with Unifrom’s Haisam Mohammed on a fragrance inspired by the spring collection; the models carried the vials in leather bags hanging from a string.
The motivation for solving all sensory problems comes from Bill Viola’s 942 Julius saw “Upside Down” in Copenhagen Contemporary, which informs all aspects of the collection, called Primal Matter, including its displays and celebrations.
Heliot Emile, Spring 948 ready to wear
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except metallic Beyond the icy rigidity and the feathery texture of the laser-cut letter Hs, a pair of well-cut trousers, the collection is not overly tactile; instead, there is a strong element of protection. Armor-like functional details characterize Heliot Emil’s aesthetic, as is heavy metal hardware, a la Alyx. “I definitely spend most of my time designing what I’ll wear,” said Julius, neatly tucked into a waistcoat as we zoomed in. 
Julius likes to tout the brand as being about “industrial elegance” and the opening look hits the mark, but overall, it feels like sexy (in BDSM edge on top) is colliding with protective gear. Although the creative director talks about breaking down stereotypes about femininity and masculinity, the extreme coverage of male models (sometimes turning to Balenciaga territory) is remarkable compared to the exposure of female models. One of the most exciting things about Heliot Emil is the way the brothers use technology. This season features 3D printed shoes and heat-reactive fabrics. With wind resistance in mind when designing in the automotive industry, Julius experimented with wind turbines to expand and transform his ideas.
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A soft landing is preferable to the alternative, but Heliot Emil has got you covered either way. The brand has a creative collaboration with Alpinestars, which builds gear for Formula 1 racing. The result is some nice (and) tough looks. For example, the heel caps of boots were used to create bras, and a similar technique was used to create curved shapes on the sleeves of miniskirts. Looking ahead , humans will work more closely with technology, while Juuls are pro-machines. While it’s counterintuitive, the industrial feel Julius sought was enhanced by organic elements in the spring collection, such as the fullness of the trouser legs under the inflatable jacket, and the juxtaposition of men’s and women’s breastplates made of Alpine stars, paired with hand-carved pieces by Italian artists. Silver armor bra. It’s nice to be able to carry something with you, but sometimes it’s a needed hug. 
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