Few labels are better places to reap the benefits of the “quiet luxury” trend than House of Dagmar. Founded in 2005 by three sisters, and named after their grandmother, the brand has always been strong on knits, but offers a complete range inspired by the easy polish of the “Stockholm girl,” essentially making it a reflection of themselves. A few years back the trio became deeply engaged with sustainability; coincidentally, the offering became sort of bland.
More recently a series of fortunate events happened: Succession launched QL, the brand got a boost from a TikTok influencer, and was picked up by Kirna Zabête, with great success. Dagmar delivers the sophisticated Scandi look without breaking the bank. The new collection delivered, too. It was extremely simple and light, with an unexpected element of romance; a touch of lace, a fine pointelle knit, the surprise of an open back. This approach, said Karin Söderlind on a walk-through, is more “feminine than we’ve done previously.” And it is a full-circle moment for the brand. “When we started all the brands were so androgynous,” she noted. “We really want to take back that femininity.”
The way the sisters chose to emphasize that quality without going OTT was by contrasting it with masculine touches from tailoring, or through fabric mixing. For spring they used leather and lace; linen and satin. Pearl buttons were another nice touch. This collection addressed the shirting trend, and also touched on the sculptural shapes we’ve been seeing, in the form of a sleeved neoprene bustier top. The delicate knits were handworked in the atelier and those samples were sent to the factories as references.
It’s not just quiet luxury that’s resonating with American markets, it’s also the appeal of Scandi style. The U.S. is now the House of Dagmar’s second-largest market after Sweden. “We put so much money and interest in other markets, but [the interest in Dagmar] just grew organically here,” Söderlind said. “And we love New York, so it’s great.” Great for Dagmar, and also for the city that never sleeps.