You may have been told that vitamin C should be the first step in your daily skincare routine, but dermatologist Ana Santamarina thinks you should still reconsider your routine because some vitamin C formulas are more effective than Other formulas last longer. “Pure vitamin C forms a reservoir in the skin,” she says. “It builds up to three or four days, so it’s not necessary to use it every day, as long as the vitamin C has some properties.”
But beware: this cannot be done with all formulas . According to Santamarina, it must be a product containing to 10% ascorbic acid and a pH of 3.5 or less. “This way it can accumulate in the tissue for up to four days, which means it can be used three to four times a week,” she says. In fact, research by Dr. Sheldon R. Pinnell Topical L-Ascorbic Acid: Transdermal Absorption Study found that 15 pH 3.2 The half-life of % ascorbic acid on the skin is approximately four days.
Experts recommend serum levels above 8%, the gold standard is around 10%, but Santamarina stresses that pH must also be considered. “Concentration is not always the most important thing, nor is it what affects the bioavailability and effectiveness of an active ingredient,” she continued. “It’s a combination of factors like pH and sun protection. The main downside of pure vitamin C is its instability. This can happen when exposed to alkaline pH and when exposed to air or light.”
If you choose a Vitamin C ampule or serum that contains 15% Ascorbic Acid formulated with a pH of 3.5 or less, you can incorporate this active ingredient Use with other ingredients to help protect skin. Niacinamide may be an option on days when do not use vitamin C. “It’s an antioxidant and improves skin tone,” says Santamarina. Plus, it’s suitable for all skin types and is anti-inflammatory.
While it’s a popular ingredient, the truth is vitamin C isn’t for everyone. There are other antioxidant formulas that can help in a similar way. “Vitamin C does have a good reputation, but I’ve met some people, it didn’t work for it, and they stuck with it. Of course, you can try different formulations, but as I always tell them That way, ‘Maybe this active isn’t working for you, and we can find another active that’s better for your skin,'” Santamarina says.
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