The theme of Byron Lars’ fall show was self-evident in the process of creation. “I started working on some fabrics, and I saw the pieces put together and I was like, ‘This looks kind of medieval,'” the designer explained during a walkthrough. Thinking about how he ended up in Camelot, Lars sees a thread in the current issue of women’s rights. “Women are out there fighting for justice in droves. That’s the only [explanation] I can think of [to explain] why they’re wearing these clothes? Why now? Then I lean in.”
The most literal interpretation of this theme is a “chain mail” jacket, which can be worn as a shirt or a dress, with leggings with armor-like details. Lars likes to gild lilies: see the lace Dresses with tops and copper-hued sequined skirts, the designer lavished details on his patchwork pieces, like lace backs and mini ruffle trim. (It was nice to see how they looked when they weren’t competing with dramatic fabrics like printed lace.) There were examples of Lars-isan’s restraint throughout the collection. It comes in the form of double-breasted coats and shapely bomber jackets with puffed sleeves in faux leather with zip trim, perforations and gathered ribbons. The designer also played with unexpected contrasts, pairing lace tank tops with metallic tweed culottes and bustiers with embroidered and selvedge trim, and oversized dungarees with a lace tank. Part knights of the round table, part dancing on the table, a printed lace blouse paired with a sequined party dress captured the collection’s vibe, “warrior princess style,” as Lars puts it.
