In Their Own Words: 37 Designers for Spring 2023

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Matty Bovan’s backstage.

Photo by Acielle / Style Du Monde

spring700 Seasons are (mostly) a pack, so hopefully you’ll get a chance to read our reviews, soak up the tweets, scroll through, and form your own opinion. As Demna said in his show notes for Balenciaga, “Fashion is a visual art and all we need is for people to be able to see it.” True, but listen to what designers say about the state of their work and the world Views are still interesting. We’ve rounded up a month’s worth of shows from shows that seem to have taken the temperature of the times.

Image: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

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“That’s where the collection begins – ‘Smell the damn roses.’ People should To be able to get their flowers. Everyone is especially important and should be protected.”

— Jason Lumbert, Aliétte

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

“The world feels so foreign and scary. I’ve always been interested in how people have understood things in the past. Finding specific reasons why things happen is what people do, and that’s what I’ve been expressing through the series. “ – Joseph Altuzara, Altuzara

Arthur Abesser

Photo: Driu & Tiago / Courtesy of Arthur Arbesser

“There’s nothing wrong with being a little more refined today, even if that’s not usually considered “cool.” But who cares? We live in a world full of commands – the only thing that will make you truly happy is to follow your own rhythm. “

— Arthur Abesser

Balenciaga

Image: Courtesy of Balenciaga

“I’m naturally an optimist, But I can’t be optimistic right now. I think the show actually expresses that – the music, the scenes, it tells the moment in our lives. “—Demna, Balenciaga

Balmain

Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

“We’ve all seen climate change this summer. We’ve all seen fires all over the world. Coming back for the show in September and thinking about whether our pants are high-rise or low-rise – I think it’s kind of futile. “—Olivier Rousteing, Balmain

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

” is the kind of casual comfort we push it to To an extreme, we call it perverse mediocrity. “ — Mathieu Brazzi, Bottega Veneta

Charles Jeffrey Loveboy

Photo: Ladislav Kyllar / Courtesy of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy

[In the spring, Jeffrey explores the concept of queer health.] Queer Safe spaces within the community, not just about nightclubs. I’ve gone mad, ranting s, Now I want to exercise, sleep well, and feel healthy – it’s a different body awareness that is appreciated. “—Charles Jeffrey, Loverboy

Christian Dior

Photo: Filippo Fior /Gorunway.com

” The idea was to use this reference [Catherine de Medic i] And how much fashion and power there is in the conversation. “ – Maria Grazia Chiuri, Christian Dior

Comme des Garçons

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

” Lamenting for the grief of the world today / the feeling of wanting to stand together. “ – Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons

diesel fuel

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

“All works are processed and designed ‘imperfect’. It’s something I like, but it also goes back to that democratic instinct. We know Diesel is a brand for anyone who wants to connect, no matter who they are or how they feel; everyone is an individual and no two are the same. Plus the piece should look “broken” so you can live with it forever – it’s unbreakable. “

— Glenn Martens, Diesel

Dilara Findikoglu

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

[There’s a lot of stylized libido — a lot of skin.] “For me, it comes from feeling trapped. I want to unload my baggage: I feel stifled by humility, I hate humility, I want to destroy it. “ — Dilara Findikoglou

Dolce Gabbana Photo by Acielle/Style Du Monde

“Yes, I have this futuristic alien Barbie personality, which I love. But in my soul I also feel very sexy Italian mob wife. I don’t know if it’s appropriate to say that. “ – Kim Kardashian, Dolce & Gabbana

Dries Van Noten

Photo by Acielle/Style Du Monde

[So, looking back, what was that theme , Dries?] “Optimistic. Because life can be beautiful. You have color, you have flowers…” So let’s smell it? “Absolutely! “—Dries Van Noten

Eckhouse Latta

by Hunter Abrams

” I think this season we feel quite optimistic and want that to be expressed in the clothing,” Mike Eckhouse said. “I feel like we, our community or just our friends have been feeling this general sense of apathy,” Zoe Latta added. “It’s a try, ‘It’s still messy. The world still feels a little bit fucked, but let’s have fun.'”

— Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, Eckhaus Latta

Edward Crutchley

picture: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

“Beautiful. I always thought that was the best way to protest. Do something beautiful to express your emotions. That’s the most beautiful way to win people around you and show them what you believe in.” “ — Edward Crutchley

Gucci

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

“Not enough clothes. When there are more of us, we become stronger. “ – Alessandro Mi of Gucci

Alessandro Michele

Jill Sander

Photo by Acielle/Style Du Monde

“We asked ourselves what is modernity,” says Lucy. “We looked at colliding glamour in very simple workwear, we cut fundamentally very simple patterns and then did something a little more eccentric,” Lou G said. — Luke and Lucy Meyer, Jill Sander

JW Anderson
Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

“I love this brief moment of time. I’ve been exploring these series. Have we fallen into our screens and become our phones? I think it’s really like a parallel universe with layers upon layers. I think it might have something to do with realism. I don’t think it has anything to do with futurism. It’s more about reflecting ourselves in some way. “—Jonathan Anderson, JW Anderson

Louis Vuitton

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

” ‘pretty tough’, which is what we’re talking about, and ‘threatened to beauty.’ The idea is to look at something pretty, something sweet, and see in those elements that they have what power. “ — Nicolas Gasquier of Louis Vuitton

Lool

Hunter shoots Abrams

“The bold shoulders are actually an expression of myself. When I’m sitting on the couch [at my parents’ house], you know, you have an uncle with a camera because I’m super flamboyant and I’ll hide myself. I want to give ’52sand’ 42s with the The show, but the [silhouette] is my way of expressing how I have the weight of the world on my shoulders like, a very funny, high-pitched, gay boy hiding in a closet. “—Raul Lopez, Lure

“If I can motivate the current Generations, old or young, listening to them and believing they can be unique — that’s my mission. “ — Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Mani

Photographed by Hunter Abrams

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“this is not’55 When brands speak in a very explicit way, they don’t exist anymore. Now you have to talk generally. “—Francesco Risso, Marni

MNAZ

by Darrell Shot by Hunter

“I feel like (as a working mother) I have family in my life elements, but there is a certain tension and freedom between the two. “—Maryam Nassir Zadeh

“A lot has happened. In my personal life, I’ve been through a pretty dark period. I was right in the eye of this storm, and obviously creativity was my savior. The idea is to use chaos, to use this surreal magic eye. “ — Marty Beauvin

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Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

“Everyone’s talking about inflation. The cost of everything is rising: housing, food, living. So I put inflation in the collection. “ — Jeremy Scott, Moschino

Image: Courtesy of N. Hoolywood

[For some time now, Obana’s focus has been on “design without borders,” which he defines For]” is not bound by body size, preconceived design concepts, gender, environment, etc. It can be worn in any era, in any era, without feeling out of place. All in all, this is a set you can wear without thinking about anything Clothes that make you feel good and comfortable.”
— Daisuke Xiaohua, N. Hoolywood

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Norma Karma Li

Image: Courtesy of Norma Kamali

“The world situation, the war, the decisions the government is making are things we don’t agree with and it’s out of our control. All this comes at a price. I never thought in my life to say that, clothes are the answer, but I think we’ve gotten to the point where there’s nothing we can do, but we can get dressed. “ — Norma Kamali

Paco Rabane

Photo by Acielle/Style Du Monde

“It’s about the feeling that a fight is about to happen, and it’s going to be a A long fight. So, it’s about expressing that passion and providing clothes for the moment you’re ready to fight, because that’s what it’s about: no apology. “ — Julian Dossena, Paco Labana

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Proenza Schouler

by Hunter Abrams

)” we’re just talking about energy , happy, sexy concepts; we honestly sometimes feel like these things are missing from our lives and we are trying to find a way to get them back. “ – Jack McCullough, Proenza Schuller

Richard Quinn Photo: Daniele Oberrauch/Gorunway.com

“I guess it’s a true labor of love. It was almost cathartic to throw all our mourning into it. We wanted it to have that real craftsmanship, the beauty of royalty, and the idea of trying to turn all the shapes and embroidery we did into the kind of uniform they did when her father [King George VI] was dead. . “ — Richard Quinn

Rick Owens

Photo by Acielle/Style Du Monde

“When you come up with more aesthetic choices, people open up in other ways too. They become more empathetic. “ — Rick Owens

Rodart Photo: Daria Kobayashi Ritch / Courtesy of Rodarte

“We were inspired by the drama of music and stage performances from the very beginning. We really wanted to feel something really vibrant and alive and something about lighting and connectivity. “ – Laura Mullivy, Rodart

Simone Rocha

Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

) “I think clothing is sometimes an escape and release. Then I think I think they are the reality. What would they be in that reality? For me, it’s about creating something protective, healing, and a sense of urgency to want to move forward. “

— Simone Rocha

Stella McCartney Acielle StyleDuMonde

“its55 Sustainability Percentage, this collection, it’s the most sustainable I’ve ever had. I am very happy. I hope there are no compromises. You shouldn’t see any sustainability. It should look like the most glamorous show. “ — Stella McCartney

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Tori · Birch by Hunter Abrams

“When I first moved, I started thinking about New York in’51s. Even so, women don’t want to be restricted, so we’ve spent a lot of time developing fabrics with a variety of stretches and pieces that can be worn in different ways. I want it to be really focused. “ — Tory Burch

Wiederhoft

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

“I think what makes fashion so beautiful is that we embody what we wear with experience and memory. If people can feel happiness or sadness and thus encourage them to be a better version of themselves – I guess that’s what I’m after. “ — Jason Widhof

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