Lucie and Luke Meier’s practice at Jil Sander revolves around a balanced tension between opposites – a dynamic marriage of art and life, as they pursue an aesthetic that largely reflects Their personalities, beliefs and consequent lifestyles. Their menswear pre-fall collection was further evidence of how Meiers managed to find a decent middle ground between contrasting elements.
Menswear is changing, shedding skin and sportswear after years of ubiquitous street style; forms are being revived with an infusion of comfort, and the discourse of gender fluidity is the inevitable subtext. Elegance is no longer a curse, as an appreciation for tailoring and tailoring skills has become a new template – subtle and varied. Miles’ approach is absolutely consistent. “It would be nice to see more fashion sense,” they said.
This season they’re looking to elevate the silhouette and volume to co-ed already launched in September Advanced custom level display. This resonates with the modern sophistication they bring to Jil Sander, as they believe “it’s all about making something special stand out.” Here, they combine sophistication with a dynamic, sporty style. “The fashion attitude is always very relaxed,” they mused. “But we absolutely love a well-dressed look that’s more thoughtful and put together.”
Elements of utilitarianism are given a sartorial touch and infused with a bit of discreet, non-flashy glamor in the mix middle. On this note, a brooch with a silver hammer bombé is pinned to a workwear-inspired straight shirt, while an all-silver chain necklace is A crisp garment added subtle sparkle—a cropped black suit whose slim, slightly flared coat was the model for the collection. It was worn over a rustic collarless white shirt, another unique theme as the shirt was explored in fascinating variations. A detachable turtleneck and detachable square scarf add softness to an otherwise rigid boxy silhouette; shirt jackets and A-line shirt coats are jacket alternatives.
Finding different, visually stimulating graphics is also part of the designer’s search for new expressive artistic paths. Most striking is an enlarged pattern inspired by an exhibition of the Richard Prince car collection that Luke saw in New York, its haphazardly unfinished painted and sanded surfaces rendered as pastel, chalky abstract brushstrokes needle-punched on a cashmere robe and sweater. The effect is intense, poetically precise. “Let’s make fashion special,” Myers concluded. We totally agree.