The vibe Luke and Lucie Meier were going for for Pre-Fall was “couture meets sporty.” they said. “We like to elevate the attitude of functionality without compromising on interesting volume, high-quality fabrics and execution.” It was indeed a clear message, and they explored it in the spring show.
Meiers are curious, introspective designers who question their practice as part of the equation. Emphasizing the “opposites attract” tension inherent in their aesthetic, they asked, “How do you make something that feels very immediate, fresh and modern, yet has this inherent couture and shape rigor?”
A dynamic between precision and glamour, utility and sensuality runs through the collection, with silhouettes alternating between wide and light, elongated and fitted. Classic collections such as capes, balloon skirts and opera coats are given a sporty yet relaxed feel through the counterintuitive use of high-end fabrics. Cape skirts are crafted in heavy jersey; puffy floral prints and pleated bustier miniskirts are cut from paper recycled polyester. At the other end of the spectrum, elongated silhouettes conveyed a sportier, more flexible language in silk ribbed-knit maxi dresses with racerback vests.
Notable examples of their obsession with hand feel material throughout. A hand-knit cutout fringed halter top in a geometric pattern looked quite striking, as did a sinuous ivory slip dress with embroidered detailing and an asymmetric floral guipure dress. Likewise, four different fabrics were cut into petal-like feathers, which were then decoratively applied to miniskirts and sleeveless tops. The effect is both light and luxurious.
“Expressing preciousness in a simple way” is the designer’s summary of the charm of this series. When it comes to luxury, its meaning is often difficult to describe, and the Myers have a strong opinion. “You want people to feel like there’s been time and real consideration in every piece we make, there’s thought and respect and appreciation for the level of craftsmanship because skill takes time and without time to learn it’s impossible to have amazing embroidery how Do it right. It reflects our philosophy of luxury, which is real time.”
