Saturday, September 30, 2023
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Jil Sander Resort 2024 Menswear

“I don’t think menswear has to be tailored to be elegant,” Luke Meier said during a showroom appointment. At a time when just about every brand is chanting tailoring, that sounds like the opposite. But the ideas of Luke and Lucie Meier are often questioned.

Working at a brand that is one of the champions of minimalism makes them inherently in tune with the current fashion vibe – they don’t need to follow anyone else’s trends. The set of rules they inherited from the Jil Sander ethos—refined rigor, respect for quality, chic functionality—still underpins their practice. For the Miles, however, equating tailoring with the holy grail of fashion wasn’t enough to point menswear in a new direction. “We love tailoring, but you don’t have to wear a jacket every day to look classy,” they say.

The spring collection was a clear interpretation of what they consider contemporary style. sense of style. Both sportswear and workwear references exemplify the designer’s refined approach: delicate touches—sparse embroidery, understated but handsome jewellery, some artistic prints—suggest that their preferred angular clothing choices are gently smoothed up.

Blurring the lines between utility, sport and formal is what menswear is all about today. The Meiers’ direction is to keep the workwear-inspired, structured functionality of the garments while adding sophistication. As in so many other collections, this season’s suits consisted of boxy, half-breasted boxy jackets paired with shorts or equally simple skirts. Traditional shirts are completely replaced by turtleneck tops, textured knits, jacquard crop tops or mesh T-shirts. Square scarves, necklaces and brooches are expressive. A full tracksuit in a bold bright green was also tailored, giving it a high-end polished and dressy look compared to normal cut-and-sewn garments. “You’ll look smart in a well-cut shirt with a little drape,” they say. “It’s not a tailored jacket, but it definitely looks chic.”



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