During New York Fashion Week in February, Catherine Holstein held a show for her new store on Mercer Street for 100 fashion show. The lights are dimmed and stuffy, and the clothes are more formal. This Kate woman is going to a cocktail party or other occasion that calls for tailoring. The vibe may have been downtown, but it’s not lost, rather the overall effect is one of untouchable vaulted glamour.
Resorts is the moment brand to explore a more laid-back side – Katie Holmes’ cashmere bra and Khaite cardigan to match. The tall showroom north of SoHo has a corner dedicated to cashmere—some of which is super-thick, hand-knitted, new for the season—and on the racks is an impressive collection of sweater dresses, woven horizontally, Rather than being woven vertically, this gives them a full but bouncy feel. A stretch-knit henley bodysuit paired with high-waisted leather pants could be the star of the season; it’s sexy in the casual way that cashmere bras are all the rage.
You’ll also find that jeans are a fundamental part of the business – silhouettes of the moment are ‘100s-ish, full leg and relaxed – and a range of No doubt a cool leather jacket. A collection of silk twill pieces printed with souvenirs of New York landmarks surprises and captivates.
As with the fall collection shown in February, there was a strong emphasis on tailoring. Holstein favored exaggerated shoulders and defined waists, or cropped styles, and she experimented with military-inspired buttons on some styles. Coat silhouettes are oversized and commanding. Evening gowns, by contrast, were a fluid movement, with fluttering ruffles and stunning skirts made of yards and yards of draped silk-georgette. Still gorgeous—she shows them in long gloves in this lookbook—but softer.
