For resorts, Lauren Manoogian favors subtle, disruptive forms, available in a variety of textures and yarn weights. “By putting two irregular things together and seeing what emerges, I feel like you end up with an unusual surface that you can’t control, but it’s still structured,” she says of her process when said. The most striking example of this approach was the urbanized shepherd’s cape with defined shoulders, which was knitted but had the appearance of shearling. On the other end of the spectrum is a lightweight double jersey that “bubbles up” for aprons/miniskirts/peplos, a fun layering piece that’s obviously been a big hit in lookbook shoots popular. Just as important as textures is the game between opacity and transparency. This dichotomy defines the “threadbare” grouping. Woven and hand-knitted sweaters using this technique resemble the delicate bark of a birch tree.
Manoogian sees the resort and early fall as an opportunity to both revisit unfinished ideas from the main series and have fun. “I think preseason is a fun time to try new things…or just focus on making something really special,” she said in a preview. The openness of this approach has resulted in one of her strongest products to date. All the different themes are in a constant back-and-forth dialogue that you can see in the lookbook, where tulle superfine basics like leggings are layered under sturdier knitwear like capes with fringed edges Jacket, a great alternative to the classic cardigan jacket. Woven accents throughout the collection included a set of hammered silk bias-cut slips and skirts—another texture—capturing ’90 cool and old Hollywood glamour. As special as Manoogian’s pieces are, they also work well in combination looks, giving customers a reason to come back again and again for more.