Wednesday, February 1, 2023
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Lemaire Fall 2023 Menswear

This is what the autumn collection is about: a show on the terrace of the Jussieu campus of Pierre and Marie Curie University, a medical school, on a bitterly cold morning, Imminent medical intervention does not seem impossible. It’s funny that we’re in the same place we once endured what appeared to be the hottest menswear show ever, an Issey Miyake — but it’s the opposite first world problem.

Our breath becomes thick with swirls of steam, like cigarette smoke. Fingers click numbly on the smartphone. When we poured the matcha to our lips, it was almost frozen. Those who got the memo came with an extra layer: those who didn’t wrap themselves in the blanket left on the bench. It could have been a smash if the ensuing scenes weren’t so compelling. But Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran crafted a captivating mise-en-scene — with a cast larger than a fashion show — that demanded your intense attention.

“We’re always interested in showing our style in a situation that’s not a traditional fashion show,” says Lemaire. “We’re inspired by movies, music and people on the street – we’re always trying to find a balance between the real and the sublime.” This desire was translated into a show that turned the runway into a plaza for some public spaces . The first look features a female model walking past us in a typical dark khaki coat – walking hurriedly as if determined to get to work before her boss, with some dreaded task —and disappeared into the elevator. Then, from left to right, more models emerged, walking in pairs, brooding alone, chattering in groups. One ran, stopped, and ran again, as if looking for a pickpocket he had just realized had stolen his wallet. A woman in black tights — baggy trousers, high-heeled boots and a short trench coat, with a sack-like bag pinned to her right hip — waited, leaning against a post. Soon someone came in and chatted.

The fashion show was a bit confusing, with the same looks (and models) reappearing in different roles, as if we were watching time-lapse footage. But the format effectively communicated Such a message that this is a series that could work great in real life. From bird whistle chokers and torch key chains, to croissant bags and those body bags, to pieces emblazoned with viscerally psychedelic artwork, designed by returning collaborator Noviadi Angkasapura, to new but retro padded garments ( Perfect Today), there is a slew of well-worn elements to watch and appreciate. Of all the usual blacks and khakis, particularly pleasing is the meandering into a rich dark green, which is unusual in menswear.

according to, the carefully crafted fullness, drape and contour, like the show format, transport you to some imaginary place between 1960 The Paris of Paris is now where every citizen is the star of their own impeccably dressed and undoubtedly emotionally complex film. Grim, but beautiful – and therefore very French.



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