A year after Virgil Abloh’s death, no menswear artistic director has announced his successor. But if appointments are a waiting mode, then Louis Vuitton is a brand in action. That’s the message the series seems to be aiming to convey with its desert race theme. With some cross-LVMH synergy, Dior Men arrived in Egypt over the weekend. Here, the idea of a desert is expressed through a sand-filled set that turns into a blooming oasis by the end.
The slideshow began with a biker jacket with Vuitton’s name slashed between a T by the front zipper; track shorts; and what looked like over-the-knee compression socks. The costume is a direct nod to racing livery, with a playful logo treatment of one of Abloh’s signature designs. The collection quickly moved beyond motorsport references to cover categories from sharp tailoring to casual travelwear, but it definitely leaned toward reinterpreting iconic brand names.
On denim, the monogram looks burned into the fabric as if it had been “burned by the desert sun”. Elsewhere, it was embossed on suede, printed on silk-blend shorts and shirts, and woven into layers of jacquard knit. The most intriguing development was the introduction of the Speaker Man, a cartoon reimagining of the models in June’s Spring2023 fashion show wearing giant speakers. It’s a sweet tribute to Abloh’s DJ kindness.
Where is the Louis Vuitton men’s collection headed? A race is a powerful metaphor, suggesting competition and rivalry and going in circles. The driver’s seat has been open here long enough that the industry’s attention has shifted elsewhere, but with another season of menswear fashion shows in January, will there be an announcement soon? We’ll be watching.
