Marco Zanini, the Milanese designer behind the Zanini brand, is in Tokyo as we speak (or, well, as I write it), one of his favorite places in the world . This is his fifth visit to Japan. This isn’t just a case of post-COVID wanderlust, it’s work, work, work, baby! Zanini is launching a project he’s dreamed up with friend and collaborator Sonya Park, the man behind Japanese label Arts&Science. (Honestly, powerhouse feels like the word might be a bit harsh for Park’s venture, but when you consider the exact and clear aesthetic of her brand and store, one A gentle, lyrical, cool style, delivered with absolute precision, where the mighty power starts to feel just right.)
Essentially, what they came up with: the elegance of Marco Zanini Sonya Park’s favorite mid-century tailoring cuts (double-breasted coats, flowy jackets) come in soft fabrics that tend to wrinkle in the hand, while her effortlessly chic branding (tumbled shirting, say) is made from He conjured it from fabrics that were still unused from seasons past. It’s small but pretty (and thoughtful): a few coats and jackets, a few shirts, and a few pairs of pants. That’s all. The label will say Zanini with Arts & Science.
Of course, you can’t get there without full trust. After their mutual friend retailer Tiina Laakonen recommended Zanini’s fall debut (?) to Park, they met Zanini’s first one season. “I just fell in love with Zanini because of the European tailoring that you don’t see in Japanese clothing manufacturing,” Park says, “which I couldn’t do at Arts&Science. That’s how it all started.”
Park has altered the Zanini pieces in this collection to better suit the Asian market; wider waists and shorter pants, she says. Everything will be made in Japan rather than in Italy the way Zanini has always been, but despite having a designer who is almost entirely devoted to overseeing how his clothes are made – I’ve never seen him spend more than he does in a factory. A lot of time guy – it’s exciting for him too. What better way to have your work seen through other people’s eyes – and made by others?
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