Editor’s note: Rev is Martine Sitbon’s collaboration with businessmen brothers Laurent and Arik Bitton, and will update the designer’s archives. The first products were shown in Paris, including a reimagined design of the designer’s Moody Fall 1986 collection, which has been newly digitized to mark the occasion. Works from this exhibition were also featured in the ” Big Bang” exhibition that just opened at the Palais Galliera in Paris. ) Martine Sitbon was born in Casablanca and moved to Paris as a child. A graduate of Studio Berçot, she was a freelance designer before 1986 launched her eponymous label. At the time, Vogue saw Sitbon as one of the up-and-coming figures giving fashion “a certain glamor — a carelessness — and a younger, Parisian way of dressing.” Also, a ready-to-wear way of dressing. Two years later, Sitbon was hired to breathe life into Chloé, one of the first ready-to-wear houses in Paris, and she designed her own collection as well as one for the heritage house.
With her partner Marc Ascoli and many talented graphic designers and photographers, Sitbon is known for its ‘rock and romance’ vibe , the vibe is fueled by the refined and correct way of dressing Parsis and rebels. This played a big part in the fall1986 collection, which opened with tightly tailored pieces before expanding to include soft-touch materials like fur and devoré chiffon; a Sitbon signature. In a recent interview, the designer described the collection as having a “dark romance.” Contemporary critics agree with that assessment. “Martine Sitbon is at her best in gothic horror,” The Daily Telegraph noted that the dresses “manage to immediately Gritty and tender. According to Danielle Zinaich, who opened the show, they have a visceral appeal. “Martine is one of my favorite designers. She has a clear direction and a clear edge,” she said in an email. “What she did for the collection was feminine and sexy. Models were so excited to be in her show because it was such a hit and the coolest influencers wanted her designs. “
The collection, called Les Arbres (Trees), featured a somewhat grotesque pattern of crossed branches. Some of them were extended by sequins embroidered with delicate twigs. cutouts, while others feature a more refined cutout; in both cases, the idea is to show the skin. As glamorous as they are, these are designed to seduce. Wear a cutout in these looks Dressy outerwear might make it suitable for cinq à sept (allocation of time), but essentially these are hot after-work dresses for liberated women, not hot girls in the woods.