“Missoni is a language that has been used for 70 years,” Filippo Grazioli said in an appointment before the fall. “My role is to introduce new words, to expand their vocabulary.”
Simplify, edit, streamline – these are new terms for Grazioli, who updates the glossary of his tag dictionary. After drastically reducing the color spectrum to just a few colors (white, black, magenta, cyan, and yellow) and reducing outlines to slanted vertical lines, he now opens up his palette to more Missoni-esque variations, while Add fluid options and proportions to shapes.
Some of the pieces he just showed in his fall menswear collection have also been proposed for pre-fall, such as iridescent mohair cardigans and denim pieces in updated textured versions fiammato mode. He loosened up the volume of knitwear a little, like slightly roomier pullovers, jackets, and coats, paired with his signature cropped, skinny miniskirts. The play of contrasting patterns and textures was more prominent: zigzags, plaids and fire patterns, often woven with Lurex yarns to give surfaces some luster, were amplified in micro/macro renditions. Raschel and caperdoni fabrics (exclusively made in-house on special weaving machines) are crafted into masculine high-waisted trousers, soft tailored coats and matching miniskirts Or a skintight miniskirt.
Grazioli also offers more color variation, adding shades of lilac, rust, pastel and bright red to the basic palette of optical white and black. Relaxing in his role, he is honing his approach to the brand: “I want Missoni to be authentic, timeless and timeless,” he says. “I want to see people on the street wearing it – I want it to be actually wearable and not just a fashion fantasy.”
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