MM6’s studio tends to value continuity, but this pre-spring 2024 collection incorporates fresh ideas. Most striking is how a garment-making technique borrowed from a century ago has been incorporated into the brand’s signature relaxed semi-finished aesthetic: ruffled necklines make plain cotton tees stand out; transform beige trench coats into cape-like enveloping ; or transform an otherwise austere, minimalist black twill top into that workhorse, one-off shape that can be worn virtually anywhere for years to come.
The intent here is to coax resonance from apparent opposites. Some of the dressiest pieces in the collection were made from crinkled silver Tyvek—a lightweight, reflective fabric used for dust sheets on construction sites—cut into “prom dresses” with asymmetrical ruffles. While it can stand on its own, here it looks layered with that soft brushed jersey hoodie and slouchy baggy jeans that the MM6 base returns to.
There are some other neat pivots. In keeping with one of the season’s most notable trends, a typically masculine-cut vest was softened with quilting, becoming a utilitarian garment that might be as comfortable as athleisure but (thankfully) isn’t. A black wool jacket held together by painted white safety pins paid homage to punk; a leather bra or a layerable, almost-nude mesh top raised the bar for a T-shirt or sweatshirt. A mix-and-match varsity jacket—white overalls quilted over a denim jacket—looked cool in an all-encompassing way. An archival polka dot, as a tulle, fuzzy print, was recolored in blues, turquoise and neon green for breezy dresses or pleated skirts.
Accessories include a fourth drop from the brand’s ongoing collaboration with Salomon: the XT-4 shoe features a single-lacing system, a reinforced sole, and purple and teal accent colors. The Numeric bag, which debuted last season, returns in mini and large versions in black or seasonal shades of sage or lime green leather. One of the label’s most famous signatures, the anatomical shoe, also returned in a green satin ballet style, or as a low boot with a clear resin heel.
