When a famous brand falls between a universally successful creative director – as Jeremy Scott most certainly did at Moschino – whatever happens next is usually Those who would have criticized for it never dared to take the chance. However, a house without a rudder doesn’t always drift in the wrong direction.
This Moschino menswear collection is going well. It’s an exercise in disapproval and iconic satire that may lack a clear raison d’être other than being purchased, but it’s still infused with enough eccentricity to work. Archival florals served as foils on corsets and bodice, set against tousled tailoring, paired with side-twisted multi-collared shirts and back-to-back student-rebel ties. Safari-camp (also camp-camp) beige explorer separates and sweaters, embellished with splattered paint embroidery. Flowers bloom beyond the print, forming a charming chain at the neckline and waist. Sober and dated Prince of Wales tailoring, Brideshead-silhouette oversized, contrasted with a wrap-belt silk shirt and dark blue corduroy Bermuda shorts.
Neither irony nor triumph, this is a Moschino collection that contains certain pieces, primarily a gorgeous oversized bike that you’ll love wearing beyond a brief vacancy.