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Moschino Pre-Fall 2023 Menswear Collection

You can think of this Moschino collection as the historical counterpart to Jeremy Scott’s inflation-themed proposal for women in Milan two months ago: punk, a youth-centric The subculture of externalized hopelessness and anti-establishment rebellious sentiment, while the economy is gone forever in the 1970 years. But here, unlike his female performances, Scott trades his tragicomedy for a deeper approach to his subject. Instead of subverting punk, he recreated punk’s raw sensibilities for a new age.

“From destruction to rebuilding. We must fight for what we believe in,” reads the graffiti on the back of a rusty brown herringbone coat. “These sentiments are still valid as we fight around the world over things, from our election here to the conflict in Ukraine to the atrocities in Iran,” Scott said in a video call from Los Angeles. Different things require attention and energy, and sometimes, you need to fight for the right things.”

The punk movement is so symbolic in its own expression that its Logos often don’t need Moschino’s ironic treatment. When it came to pieces that were rebelliously collaged from traditional wardrobe elements—traditional menswear tailoring, military uniforms, kilts—Scott only amplified that attitude (and studs). Likewise, he kept his deconstructed suits held together with safety pins, at least from a punk perspective.

Instead, he infused the Moschino factor into the enlarged safety pins on coats and jackets, lots of leopard print, all-over dollar bills, and trompe l’oeil elements that would make anti-establishment Happy original members. Speaking of which, at a dinner, Scott did try to get Dame Vivienne Westwood to reflect on her movement’s transition to the mainstream, but like a true punk, she just wanted to talk about activism. “She’s a legend and a British treasure,” he said.

Born in 1975 Kansas City, Scott was certainly never a punk. But sitting on our video call in his Mighty Mouse T-shirt, talking about the colorfulness that defined his own life, it’s easy to see the connection between his own aesthetic and the rebels who paved the way.

Miley Cyrus took him to see contemporary punk bands in LA these days. “Honestly, I don’t think they’re so keen on being anti-establishment. I remember a song about a gold digger…it’s almost a rap song, but it’s played with guitars, screaming,” he said. said laughingly. But, like fashion, “I think punk is always good.”



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