Not all 80 revivalism leans towards pop culture references eg Dynasty, Jane Fonda workout and big hair. N. Hoolywood’s line of test product exchange services is a good example. Designer Daisuke Obana, vintage military specialist and perfectionist, was inspired by special mission soldier attire from the era. At the time he was also “trying to reproduce all video work as it is,” and the result gave his collection of films an analog feel. “It’s not so much a message as a way to get people to experience the collection,” he wrote in an email exchange.
Due to the respect and study of historical costumes, Xiaohua’s work itself may be read as a simulation because it refers to something else. But, as usual, the designers had a few surprises. Cotton fabric is actually high performance polyester. “At first glance it looks retro, but it’s actually very high-tech,” said Xiaohua. Their practicality and attention to detail, such as unexpected pull tabs on pockets or sleeves that open to the elbow, are nectar for the insider. I was going to write hypebeasts, but the concept of getting people’s attention is antithetical to the spirit of N. Hoolywood and the series as well.
The fashion world is familiar with the concept of stealth wealth, but dressing up as a disguise (an action, not a pattern) is not the zeitgeist. Quiet but confident in his designs, Obana focuses on performance rather than performative self-expression. This is not only an aesthetic choice, but also closely related to the designer’s life values. “Every day I was forced to think about the priorities of a more self-centered life. A selfish mindset of not bothering others,” he wrote. Read this article, and then take another look at the series; you’re all set, aren’t you?
80
