At first glance, N. Hoolywood’s Spring Series Compile Might be read as “basic” because the materials (denim, flannel, waffle and rib knit) and pieces (jeans, shirts, trench coats) look so familiar. But like everything Daisuke Xiaohua does, nothing is as simple as it seems. For example, have you noticed that the figure receding in the lookbook image is not the model wearing the previous look, but the rear view of the same model?
For some time now, Obana has been focusing on “borderless design,” which he defines in an email as “body-independent, preconceived Design concept, gender, environment, etc. It can be worn in any era, in any generation, without feeling out of place. All in all, this is a set of clothes that you can wear without thinking about anything, and it also allows you to It feels good and comfortable.” Some of these qualities are traditionally associated with American workwear, which was, in fact, the starting point for the collection, as Obana, who used to work as an antique dealer, had an impressive collection of American fashion. Obama explained that during the pandemic, he has more time to spend researching his treasures, hunting for new finds at auctions and in antique stores in Tokyo. In doing so, the designer began to focus on the materials used in mass fashion in the past, and how he could use technology to produce similar-looking materials with modern functionality in small batches. For example, he explained, the team was able to preserve the look of heavier materials in lighter fabrics to “preserve the feel of the past while creating original fabrics with modern technology.”
The intersection of old and new has always been at the heart of Aubana’s work; this collection brings us a curve that literally – look at the shape of the trouser seam – is inspired by womenswear patterns. One way to interpret the apple print inspired by old Hawaiian shirts is to use seduction to interpret the biblical story of the Garden of Eden, which is also about new beginnings in a way. It seems that with this series, Obana, never alone going through the motions, is taking a step in a new direction. “I’ve recently become interested in different things, like sculpture, or tracing the lines [patterns] of 3D objects to be worn,” he wrote. “I think in this season’s collections there’s been a particularly high awareness of drape patterns combined with body movements.” What a sweet harmony.
