N. Hoolywood’s Daisuke Obana is a master at combining “functionality with fashion,” a term he uses to describe a specific look but also applies to his entire body of work. He’s an expert on vintage American workwear and military gear; the latter being the focus of the brand’s testing product swap collection.
The MO here is to transform the details of utilitarian garments into civilian garments with a strong focus on technical fabrics. Materials such as water-repellent coated ripstop fabrics and high-density wool are used in the spring collection. Adding a pop of color to the muted, even somber neutrals are large red tabs inspired by tabs on British Army bomb disposal equipment, while the drawstrings they are attached to date back to To the overalls worn by the British military. german army. These cords allow the wearer to customize proportions, size, fit, and prevent heat from escaping. The rest of the fashion world is catching up to N. Hoolywood’s appreciation for adjustability. We see many designers try on multiple outfits while on vacation.
Functionality is the practical aspect of Obana’s aesthetic. There’s a precision to his work—over the past few seasons, he’s painstakingly photographed models in poses that fit seamlessly into images on vintage postcards (early fall ) , and he is committed to “reproducing video works in the way of the 80 era” (Spring 2023). This may be read as a variation of “talking the talk,” or a positive belief that a solution can be found. Maybe if you can use design to make things actually work, there are some ways you can use that to improve life on Earth?
Regardless, Obana’s ambition and commitment were evident this season. In a friend’s field in Niigata Prefecture, he and his team spent a week digging a 40 trench three meters deep. “This action,” he wrote, “expresses our desire for a world where such activities are unnecessary.” Hopefully so.
