For spring, Natasha Zinko took us outdoors—literally and figuratively. Two images pinned to her moodboard informed much of the collection. One, found online, depicted a contemporary man carrying an extraordinary load of bags and boxes on his back. The second showcased a 1778 illustration by Miss Calash, portraying a woman wearing an expansive folding hood to safeguard her elaborate hairstyle. “There are elements of it being about survival,” Zinko mused, “and the world right now is full of environmental and political issues that are forcing us into being reactive in our actions—movement can happen any time.”
Titled Decamp, the collection explored the idea of a nomad on an outdoor expedition. Taking place in the middle of London’s grassy Soho Square, the show space was surrounded by myriads of tents in varying sizes. There were heavyweight, oversized pants constructed from vintage cargo pants. Tree trunk and mud graphics were digitally printed and strewn across padded nylon puffers—riffing on the muscled jackets from last season. There was even an oversized log-shaped bag adorned with the tree print that could almost fit an entire person in it. Leather wader-style boots of dramatic proportions featured distinct stiletto heels and motorcycle jacket details—these stood out as a sartorial twist on the outdoorsy.
Elsewhere, underwear-inspired looks were crafted from heavy stretch cotton into long-johns-turned-capri pants and rompers with button-up details on the back. There were also Italian specialist-crafted leather handbags, mirroring the shape of men’s Y-fronts and perfectly emulating the vertical grooves of fabric. A show-stopping highlight arrived in the form of a mid-sized ball gown fashioned from waterproof nylon, the same technical material found in tents. The skirt could transform into a hood, paying homage to the Miss Calash illustration.